Installation Tips (2003-2004 Cobra and Modular Mustangs)

Here are two links for general 2003/2004 Cobra and Modular Motor How-To Installation Instructions.
Both of the links below have excellent general installation tips and how-to instructions.  Linking to these two great websites is easier and better than me listing the install detail here.  Just click on either one.

SVTPerformance.com How-To_Instructions
ModularFords.com How-To-Instructions

Below you will find installation instructions for the following.  Click on the appropriate link.
   Shifter Installation
   Eaton Supercharger Removal and Re-Installation
   60# Fuel Injector Installation

Shifter Installation Instructions
Tools needed:  Assortment of metric sockets and wrenches, along with a couple of 1/2" open-end wrenches to adjust the shift stops.  The installation of your shifter should take between 30-60 minutes depending on your mechanical ability and whether or not you've done it before.  After removing/installing my TriAx shifter twice I could do the entire process in about 20 minutes.

Click on the instructions thumbnail below to enlarge it.  Then use your browser's Zoom feature (Page dropdown menu on upper right side of screen for IE 7 users) to further enlarge the page if necessary.  The instructions are for a TR-3650 transmission and Steeda TriAx shifter, but they basically apply to all late-model Mustang transmissions and aftermarket shifters.  NOTE:  If you are installing my shifter gasket set disregard where it says in Step 7 to apply a bead of silicone gasket material (silicone sealer).  No sealer is used with my base gasket.

Click for Shifter Install Instructions

Eaton Supercharger Removal & Installation Instructions
Porting your Eaton blower?  Here are some detailed instructions for removing and re-installing your blower, as well as some tips.  Use at your own risk as I did not personally author them.

The instructions below are provided from Ford Motor Co.  I take no responsibility for them and only provide this information as a service.  I have not verified the steps or torque specs myself, but have been assured by those who have used this information that it is correct.  A set of more detailed removal /install instruction from kirks5oh on SVTPerformance.com can be found below as well.  

Special Note -- 'Torque to yield' head bolts should not be reused when reinstalling the supercharger.  There is a risk that when using the Ford torque specs these bolts could break.  Always use new bolts to attach the intake to the cylinder heads.

Click on each photo in sequence for an enlarged view that can be printed.

         
      (1)                      (2)                   (3)                   (4)                  (5)



       
        (6)                   (7)                  (8)                   (9)                  (10)



       
      (11)                  (12)                  (13)                (14)



Removal/Installation Instructions Provided by kirks5oh on SVTPerformance.com.

Tools needed: 1/4inch drive sockets (7,8,10,13mm), deep 10mm socket, socket extensions, pliers, screwdrivers, open end 10mm ratchet wrench, 13mm, 27mm, and 1 inch wrenches, extendible magnet (just in case), torx t-20 driver, 1/2 inch socket driver for blower belt, propane torch, inch/lb and ft/lb torque wrenches for installation

Other supplies: rags, towels, loctite (red), RTV (gasket maker) such as Permatex® Ultra Grey® Rigid High-Torque RTV Silicone Gasket Maker, intercooler fluid, hose clamps, zip ties, brake or carb cleaner, zip lock bags.

TIPS: Take your time, read through these directions, print them out, and go slow. I drained my intercooler fluid at the beginning of the job and it made things a lot cleaner, but this is not a must. Be very careful about labeling EVERYTHING that is disconnected. I used masking tape, and black Sharpee marker to label things. Also use zip lock bags to put nuts/bolts/etc. in from each step, and label the ziplock bag. Remember your blower will be away for a week or two and you don't want to forget/overlook anything on the installation. Also have a friend handy when it comes time to lift the intake/blower up to get at the intercooler manifold bolts. If no friends are available, use wood blocks to hold it up (but this is not ideal). Also, you can reuse most of your gaskets so be careful with removal of items with gaskets. I had to throw away my plenum and intercooler manifold gaskets.

Here's a quick list of nut/bolt sizes for quick reference:
throttle body--four 8mm bolts
idle air control motor (IAC)--two 8mm bolts
throttle cable bracket--two 8mm bolts
intake plenum--four 13mm nuts
large driver's side bracket on blower--two 10mm bolts, one 10mm nut
EGR valve--one 10mm bolt, one 10mm stud, one 27mm nut
MAT sensor--two t-20 torx screws
fuel injector rail studs--four 10mm studs
intercooler manifold--three 10mm bolts, one 8mm bolt
blower bypass valve--two 10mm bolts
lower intake bolts--ten 10mm bolts
blower bolts--ten 10mm bolts
intercooler to blower bolts--ten 7mm bolts

GASKETS--here's a list of gaskets to look out for/order if you're going to replace them. like i said, i needed to replace the intake plenum gasket and the intercooler manifold gasket, and i was careful in removing them.
throttle body to intake plenum
IAC motor to throttle body
intake plenum to supercharger
EGR valve to supercharger
intercooler manifold to lower intake manifold
blower to lower intake manifold
lower intake manifold to cylinder heads

TORQUE SPECS:
ten 7mm intercooler to blower bolts--tighten 1st to 2Nm (18inch/lbs) 2nd tighten to 6Nm (53inch/lbs) then go back through and make sure all are at 53inch/lbs--use red loctite, see pictures for sequence diagram

ten 10mm blower to intake bolts--tighten 1st to 2Nm (18inch/lbs), 2nd to 25Nm (18ft/lbs)

ten 10mm intake to cylinder head bolts (use new bolts) --tighten the bolts to 10 Nm (89 inch lbs) in the sequence shown below

four intercooler manifold bolts (three 10mm, and one 8mm)--1st tighten to 10Nm (89 inch/lbs), 2nd tighten an additional 90 degrees

fuel rail studs (four 10mm studs)--tighten to 10Nm (89inch/lbs), large 27mm EGR nut--tighten to 35Nm (26ft/lbs), four 13mm nuts for the intake plenum--tighten to 25Nm (18ft/lbs), two 10mm bolts on throttle cable bracket--tighten to 10Nm (89inch/lbs)



Removal Instructions  (click on thumbnails to enlarge)

1. drain intercooler fluid. this is not a must, but eliminates a lot of spillage and mess. i did this by removing the hose clamp off my heat exchanger. if you don't do it this way, you should remove as much intercooler fluid from the reservoir as you can using a turkey baster.
2. disconnect battery.
3. remove your blower belt from the supercharger. to do this, use a 1/2inch socket drive and put it in the factory spring loaded tensioner. i believe you will turn the tensioner clockwise to let tension out, and you can remove your belt.
4. next remove the items in the picture below

Some of these are electrical connections (the throttle position sensor-brown arrow, and the IAC control harness-red arrow). Also unhook your mass air harness (not pictured), but it is the wire connector to you mass air sensor.  Others are vacuum lines I believe (there is one that hooks into the intake plenum-green arrow, and one that hooks into your air inlet tube-blue arrow).

Next unhook the crankcase breather (yellow arrow), as well as the two throttle connectors (lavender arrows).  To remove these, the upper one just snaps out of its holder, and the lower one just slides out.

Now you are ready to remove your air inlet tube (unscrew the large hose clamp holding the inlet tube to the throttle body), and remove whatever cold air intake you have as well.

5. Remove the following pictured below.

IAC motor-red arrows, two 8mm bolts, be careful with gasket
throttle body-green arrows, four 8mm bolts, again take care with gasket
throttle cable bracket-blue arrows, two 8mm bolts--zip tie cable off to side
intake plenum-four 13mm nuts, use the socket for some, and the open end wrench for the others, again take care with the gasket.

6. Refer to picture below and remove the following.

This is a view of the back side of the blower as seen from the passenger side.  You can see on the right side of the picture the intake plenum has been removed.

First remove the two vacuum lines and label them, from the back of the blower--the upper vacuum line (yellow circle), and lower vacuum line (blue circle).

You can then remove the PCV hose-two red arrows, that is just to the side of the upper vacuum line.
 
Finally, remove one nut (left green arrow), and one bolt (right green arrow). Both are 10mm. The nut is one of three things holding on a large driver's side bracket (that will soon be removed), and the bolt holds part of the EGR valve in place. Once you remove the driver's side bracket, you will have to come back and remove the other bolt holding the EGR valve in place. You will need a ratcheting (preferably) 10mm wrench for this.

Here's another look at the back of the blower, with the blower off the car.

The upper vacuum line is shown with the blue arrow, the lower vacuum line with the green arrow, and the PCV hose attaches to the blower at the red arrow.

7. Refer to picture below and remove the following.

This is a view from the driver's side of the big bracket and EGR valve

Remove the other two bolts--10mm, holding the large driver's side bracket on (the left two green arrows).  You will need to remove several other connections in order to pull this bracket and all that is attached to it away from the blower to give you room

Remove two connections to the blower bypass valve--red circles
Next remove the vacuum line going into the top of the EGR valve--yellow circle
Then remove the large nut on the side of the EGR valve--upper blue arrow. I used a 27mm wrench to do this, but others have found the correct size is 1inch. You will find that the tube will remain inside the EGR valve.
The other lower blue arrow is pointing to the MAT sensor that is attached to the blower with torx screws. You may not be able to remove the electrical connector to the MAT sensor yet, but this is the only picture i have that shows the vicinity where it is, and it will have to be disconnected to get the blower out.

8. refer to the picture below.

This is another view of the large bracket on the driver's side and the last few things that get disconnected before you can move it all to the side.

The green arrow is just one of the three connections of the bracket to the blower, remember one of them is back behind the EGR valve and the other is right next to the one in this picture.

The red circles show two connections to the fuel rail pressure sensor that should be disconnected.

Now you can move the whole bracket off to the side. Remember to go back to the EGR valve at this time and remove the (now exposed) bolt-10mm-using a ratcheting box end wrench. Now you should be able to remove the EGR valve--again watch out for the gasket
as you do this.  You'll want to disconnect the wiring harnesses to each of the four injectors on the driver's side (one is shown with the blue arrow).

Now you should have sufficient room to get at the lower intake as well as the blower bolts on the driver's side. The fuel injectors themselves, as well as the fuel rails, do NOT get disconnected.

9. Refer to below.

This is a frontal shot.

Remove the inlet hose (red arrow on left), as well as the outlet hose (red arrow on right-hose is already removed) from the intercooler manifold. If you didn't drain all the IC fluid, you may get some spillage, so be prepared.

Remove all the injector wiring harnesses on the passenger side-blue arrows, and pull all that wiring off to the side. Now the passenger side is completely exposed.

The blower belt (green circle) should be removed at this point.

10. Refer to picture below.

Loosen, but do not remove the four studs that hold the fuel rails to the blower/intake--I believe 10mm deep socket. There are two studs per side. It is only necessary to back them out a fair amount, because you will have to rock the fuel rail to one side to get at the blower bolts in a later step. Again, there is NO NEED to disconnect the fuel rails or injectors at all.

The blue arrows are pointing at 2 of the ten bolts (5 per side) that hold the lower intake to the cylinder heads--remove these bolts at this time, they are 10mm bolts. Be careful with the back ones on each side, so they don't fall behind your engine. I put down a blue rag on each side to prevent this.

At this time, the only thing connecting your lower intake/blower to the rest of the engine is the fuel lines hooking into the fuel rails on the passenger side. DO NOT disconnect this line. It is flexible, and you will be ok not disconnecting it. The whole point of removing the lower intake bolts is so that your friend (please call friend at this time) can tilt the lower intake up in the air slightly so you can remove the intercooler manifold--next step.

11. Refer to below.

This is a frontal shot, with the lower intake/blower combo tilted in the air by your friend (which happened to be two wooden slabs in my case-blue arrows)

Remove the four bolts holding the intercooler manifold to the lower intake. three are 10mm and one is an 8mm bolt. If you didn't drain your IC fluid, get ready for splillage. Now while the blower is still tilted up, carefully remove the intercooler manifold and the two connectors (next picture) that fit into the intercooler itself. These connectors are held in place by o-rings. Again, be careful to try to save the gasket.
Now set your lower intake back into place. Be careful in doing this so that you do not put it back down crooked, or you will ruin the gasket below. At this time I put four of the ten lower intake bolts back into place (hand tight).  Just to hold the intake down when removing the blower itself.

Below is the intercooler manifold, removed, showing the two connections to the actual intercooler.

12. Next, remove the ten 10mm bolts holding the blower in place. you will have to tilt the fuel rails back slightly to get at the bolts. again, watch it with the back bolts so you don't lose them.

Now confirm that all connectors to the blower are not attached. The only two things on the blower at this time should be the bypass valve and the MAT sensor. Make sure all connections to both of those are removed.

Lift the blower straight up, and out of your engine. Use a friend to help, and be careful.  It will be much heavier than you think--it still has the intercooler attached. Be careful with the blower gasket if you want to reuse it

13. Drain the last of the IC fluid from the IC by tilting the blower on its end--be careful, don't drop your blower. Now remove the MAT sensor using a t-20 torx screwdriver. Then you can remove the blower bypass valve-two 10mm bolts.  It will take some fiddling to remove it but take it off.

14. Last, but not least, remove the intercooler from the blower. This takes patience and eight 7mm bolts. use the propane torch to break the loctite that is holding these bolts in. If you meet resistance, take a 1/4 turn backwards and then go again. I didn't use the torch and broke one off. I you do this, your porting vendor (ie. Steigemeier) can drill it out for around $20.

Your engine bay should look like this.  Use a towel to block off the intake.

There you have it. It took me at about 4 hours, but it may take you less time than that.  A friend helps!


Re-Installation

Here are some pics and tips on the installation of your blower.

Refer to the top of the thread for necessary tools and equipment--you will need inch/lb and foot/lb torque wrenches, as well as red Loctite and some gasket making material.

One important thing to keep in mind when you are torqueing bolts down is not to get confused between inch/lbs and ft/lbs. If a torque step says to tighten something to 53 inch/lbs and you go with ft/lbs instead, you will break the bolt for sure--so pay close attention.  Here's a picture of the blower off the car and upside down with a bead of gasket making material on it between the blower and the intercooler.

Place the intercooler on top of the blower (MAKE SURE THE INTERCOOLER INLET AND OUTLET PIPES ARE FACING THE FRONT OF THE BLOWER) and start all ten 7mm intercooler bolts (THESE SHOULD NOT BE RE-USED). Use a dab of RED Loctite on these bolts. refer to the crude picture below for the proper torque sequence:
 

1st tighten to 2Nm (18 inch/lbs) NOT FT/LBS!!!!
Then tighten to 6Nm (53 inch/lbs).
I went through one more time to make sure each bolt was at 53 inch/lbs.
This must be done within 5 minutes of starting the torque sequence for some reason.

Once you have the intercooler attached to the blower, its time to bolt on the MAT sensor and the blower bypass valve. I'm not sure if there's any specific torque setting for these, but they must be put on before the blower is bolted back up the the lower intake. The blower bypass valve uses two 10mm bolts and the MAT sensor uses two t-20 torx screws.

I then placed a very thin coat of gasket maker on the blower gasket and then placed the blower in position (with the help of a friend this time) on top of the lower intake. Before you do this, inspect your car's engine bay and make sure the lower intake is clean and clear of any debris/tools/etc.  Also make sure that the path is clear for the blower to go back on top of the intake.

The crude picture below shows the torque sequence for both the ten 10mm blower to intake bolts (the inner set of numbers) as well as the ten 10mm intake to cylinder head bolts (outer set of numbers). Only bolt the blower to the intake at this time, as you will have to lift the blower/intake combo up in the air again to bolt the intercooler manifold in place.

These are the specs listed: blower to intake bolts
   Stage 1: Tighten to 2 Nm (18 lb-in).
   Stage 2: Tighten to 25 Nm (18 lb-ft).

Next use your friend to lift the lower intake/blower combo up in the air slightly so you can bolt on the intercooler manifold.  If you used 4 of the lower intake bolts to hold the lower intake in place while your blower was being ported, make sure to remove these now.
The intercooler manifold bolts (three 10mm and one 8mm) bolt on in the following torque sequence.

1st tighten to 10Nm (89 inch/lbs) (note the INCH pounds)
2nd tighten an additional 90 degrees

Install the intake manifold, supercharger and fuel supply manifold as an assembly to the heads, and tighten the bolts to 10 Nm (89 lb-in) in the sequence shown in the above diagram.

If you labeled all the nuts/bolts/sensors/etc. properly, the rest of the installation should be pretty straight-forward. Please refer to the blower removal for any pics that you may need showing where certain things go. Don't forget to add intercooler fluid to your car. I like to "jump" the intercooler pump before I start my car so that I can circulate all the intercooler fluid and add any if necessary.

Here are a few of the other torque specs:
  throttle cable bracket--two 10mm bolts tighten to 10Nm (89 inch/lbs)
  intake plenum nuts--four 13mm nuts tighten to 25Nm (18 ft/lbs)
  large EGR valve nut--one 27mm nut tighten to 35Nm (26 ft/lbs)
  fuel rail studs--four 10mm studs tighten to 10Nm (89 inch/lbs).

 

60# Fuel Injector Installation Instructions

These instructions come from Runnin' With The Devil (www.RWTD.com) located in Mobile, AL.  

1: Disconnect negative battery cable (just for safety).

2: Unplug all vacuum lines on the air inlet tubing and plenum.

3: Remove your air inlet tubing up to the throttle body.

4: Remove the 4 nuts that hold the plenum on to the blower casing (the bottom back one can sometimes be a lil challenging without the right extensions/wobblers).

5: Starting with the passenger side, relieve any fuel pressure in the lines by unscrewing the schrader valve's cap and pushing a small screwdriver down on the center stob. It is suggested to use shop rags/paper towels to soak up excess fuel that will obviously spill out (just wrap them around the schrader valve before depressing the center stob).

6: Next, remove all the injector harnesses.

7: Now undo the 2 nuts that hold the fuel rail onto the intake housing (the nuts may already be seized to the studs, so do not be alarmed if the nuts/studs all come out together as one).

8: Take and slowly lift up on the fuel rail by applying a very small rocking motion from the front side of the rail with your right hand and the back side of the rail with your left hand. The rail and injectors should all come out easily with *very* minimal force. Do not let this scare you. You can't screw anything up here, nor honestly on any of this R&R.

9: Replace the 4 passenger side injectors with the 4 new 60's and be sure to use your old brass looking metal clips on the new injectors. They come off actually very easy. It is important that you dip your finger in motor oil to coat around ALL the o-rings on the injectors to ensure they slide in without force onto the rails and intake. Do not use excess oil as it is not needed.

10: Install your new adapter harnesses. If you purchased the adapter harnesses from me (RWTD), you'll notice we have the best in the business (stout connectors and heat shrinked tubing around the exposed extension wires), as well as the best in pricing on them (shameless plug, but true, lol). You'll also notice that you most likely will never get the ends that go to the factory harnesses clipped by just pushing on them with your fingers. They are suppose to be tight (this is done purposely for a great seal), so the trick here is to push them as far as you can with your fingers, and then use a small flathead screwdriver to life "UP" on the release clip. You will hear a "CLICK" when you do this. This is VERY important to make sure you have them locked in. I've seen some people not do this and then they will have codes come up later on from injectors not firing because the harnesses backed out. I've seen other people put electrical tape around them trying to keep them held in. This can all be avoidable if you follow this step from me properly, and then use common sense on how to get them to lock in.

11: Reinstall injectors and rails by ensuring everything is lined up and going in straight. Apply steady pressure EVENLY down onto the injector rail to ensure they all go in equally and at the same time.

12: Button back up your passenger side in reverse order of removal, including reinstalling your cold air intake.

13: Now for the driver side. This side can bit slightly challenging if you let it intimidate you. It's NOT any harder, trust me. You will notice the metal vacuum line assembly is in your way. All you have to do is unplug the majority of the small vacuum hoses from it, then unbolt the metal vacuum line assembly from the blower bracketry and pull it back out of the way (there are 2 bolts that hold it into place, plus 1 nut on the backside of the EGR; you do NOT have to remove this EGR nut). Yes, this will bend it slightly doing this, but it bends right back in place when you reinstall it, so do NOT be concerned doing this. Otherwise you can also remove the nut on the backside of the EGR valve that holds the backside of the bracketry on (you'll regret trying to do this in a tight cramped space), and then work it out of the way from there.

14: Now take and follow steps 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, and 12 again for R&R on the driver side.

15: Double check everywhere for installation misses, such as vacuum hoses, nuts/bolts, etc.

16: Hook up your negative battery cable.

17: Turn the key from OFF/ON at least 5 to 10 times to build pressure back in the lines, giving at least a 3 seconds pause between each cycle, so as to allow the pump to prime.

18: Get out and check for ANY fuel leaks around the injectors. If there isn't any fuel previously spilled heavily from the R&R then you would most likely be able to notice any heavy gas smells if you had a leak, but not necessarily. Do not allow this step to cause you to overanalyze and make you become overly concerned. Just using common sense here. If you do not see any leaks then you do not have any.

19: Crank the vehicle and check again for leaks.

IMPORTANT: MAKE SURE YOU HAVE YOUR NEW CUSTOM TUNE CALIBRATED FOR YOUR 60# INJECTORS INSTALLED BEFORE YOU ATTEMPT TO CRANK AND DRIVE YOUR VEHICLE. DO NOT CRANK OR DRIVE YOUR VEHICLE WITHOUT IT. YOUR VEHICLE WILL NOT RUN CORRECTLY WITHOUT A TUNE DESIGNED FOR THE 60# INJECTORS!!!

20: Shut your hood (sorry, had to make it to 20 steps, lol). Now go have some fun!

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