Engine Bay & Console Tags available for '03-'04 Cobra.
Plate is Brushed Aluminum. Custom Printed with your Vehicle Info. For ordering info, CLICK HERE. Sold by Gary Loat.
Section
Question
1.
About this FAQ
1.1.
Disclaimer and limitation of liability
1.2.
Version Info
1.3.
Authors and Contributors
1.4.
Notification of Copyright
1.5.
Contact Information
2.
General Questions
2.1.
Basic Questions
2.1.1.
What are the differences between the 2003 and 2004 Cobra?
2.1.2.
Pricing? And what was the gas guzzler tax that was added to the 2003 Cobra invoice?
2.1.3.
How many were made for each year? And when did production begin and end for the '03 and '04?
2.1.4.
What changes were made on the SVT Anniversary Edition?
2.1.5.
How can I get a replacement Owners Manual and SVT Supplement? And how about a 2003 Cobra Dealer Brochure?
2.1.6.
When will I get a copy of my original window sticker? And how can I get a copy of my Build Certificate?
2.1.7.
Where do I get the build documentation?
2.1.8.
I have a blue stripe on the driver side head. Does it mean that the head was replaced by the dealer or at the factory to fix the tick issue?
2.1.9.
What things should I check for when buying a used 2003/2004 Cobra?
2.1.10.
What colors were available?
2.1.11.
What options were available?
2.1.12.
Does the stereo play MP3’s?
2.1.13.
Should I remove the yellow stickers?
2.1.14.
What are some good web sites for 2003/2004 Cobra information?
2.1.15.
What kind of gas mileage should I expect?
2.1.16.
How do you clean the Alcantara fabric (imitation suede) on the seats? And where can I buy it to re-upholster my seats?
2.1.17.
How can I find out when the warrantee period started for my '03/'04 Cobra?
2.1.18.
I have OEM chrome wheels with the gray coating on the inside. How can I remove it?
2.1.19.
How do I change the Eaton supercharger oil?
2.1.20.
Should I upgrade to the latest revised heads for my Terminator? And is it worth it to get the new heads ported and give them a quality valve job?
2.1.21.
I'm storing my car for the winter. What are some storage tips? And how can I prevent damage from mice?
2.1.22.
Is it safe to wash my engine? Will it cause any drivability issues?
2.1.23.
What are the general specs such as lubricants, torque specs, engine specs, etc.?
2.1.24.
Where can I buy a good car cover?
2.2.
Technical Questions
2.2.1.
What are the general specifications for each model year, including standard and optional equipment?
2.2.2.
What do 2003-2004 Cobra’s typically dyno at stock?
2.2.3.
What are the differences in the “runs”?
2.2.4.
What are the differences between the 2003 Cobra and the 2001 Cobra?
2.2.5.
How does the Traction Control System work?
2.2.6.
What are the TSBs (Technical Service Bulletins) for the 2003/2004 Cobra?
2.2.7.
What is heat soak?
2.2.8.
How does the supercharger work?
2.2.9.
What transmission does the Cobra use, and is there a maintenance guide for the transmission?
2.2.10.
What are the specifications for the Cobra’s IRS?
2.2.11.
What are the specifications of the Cobra’s suspension components?
2.2.12.
What are the specifications of the Cobra’s brakes?
2.2.13.
What fluids should I use in my Cobra?
2.2.13.1.
Engine Oil
2.2.13.2.
Blower Oil
2.2.13.3.
Transmission Lubricant
2.2.13.4.
Primary Coolant
2.2.13.5.
Intercooler Coolant
2.2.13.6.
Brake Fluid
2.2.14.
Where are the jacking points for jacking up the car?
2.2.15.
How do I change the inner serpentine belt?
2.2.16.
How do I change the fuel filter?
2.2.17.
How do I adjust my clutch?
2.2.18.
What is the FRPS and where is it located? And what causes it to fail?
3.
Modifications
3.1.
What are the common “bolt-on” mods?
3.2.
What does a Cobra with “XYZ” mods dyno at?
3.3.
Do mods void the warranty?
3.4.
Is a custom tune needed with a pulley swap?
3.5.
What is the difference between upper and lower blower pulleys?
3.6.
How much boost will a Cobra make with “XYZ” pulley?
3.6.1.
Upper & Lower Pulleys
3.6.2.
Is it not good to do WOT runs to 140+ mph? I've heard that the motor could be damaged as a result.
3.7.
What size belt should I use with a pulley mod?
3.8.
What is the difference between dyno tuning and road tuning?
3.9.
Are “mail order” tunes safe?
3.10.
What spark plugs came from the factory, and what are best with a pulley mod? And what's the best way to gap Iridium plugs?
3.11.
What exhausts are available for the 2003 Cobra?
3.11.1.
Cat-back systems
3.11.1.1.
3”
3.11.1.1.1.
Dynomax
3.11.1.1.2.
Quarter Mile Performance (QMP)
3.11.1.2.
2.5”
3.11.1.2.1.
Bassani
3.11.1.2.2.
Magnaflow
3.11.1.2.3.
Flowmaster
3.11.2.
X-pipes
3.11.2.1.
3.11.2.1.1.
QMP
3.11.2.2.
3.11.2.2.1.
3.11.2.2.2.
3.11.3.
Headers
3.11.3.1.
Long Tube
3.11.3.1.1.
BBK
3.11.3.1.2.
Hooker
3.11.3.1.3.
JDM (Kooks)
3.11.3.1.4.
Installing Longtubes
3.11.3.2.
Shorties
3.11.3.2.1.
Bassani “Mid Length”
3.11.3.2.2.
JBA
3.12.
Should I get a “catted” X pipe?
3.13.
Do you lose torque with a 3” exhaust?
3.14.
What CAI is best?
3.15.
What are the “free” mods?
3.15.1.
Hood Mod (is it okay to remove the hood blanket and ground strap?)
3.15.2.
Snorkel Mod
3.15.3.
What is the difference between a CAI and a RAI?
3.15.3.1
How do I install my new K&N FIPK Generation II RAI kit?
3.15.4.
Shifter Mods
3.15.4.1.
Bending the handle
3.15.4.2.
Extender
3.15.4.3.
Bushing Removal
3.15.4.4.
Quieting Shifter Gear Noise
3.15.5.
Weight Reduction
3.15.6.
Boost Gauge Mod
3.15.7.
Removing the “Pony” on the grill
3.15.8.
Boost Bypass Mod
3.15.9.
Fan Mod
3.16.
Is there an aftermarket aluminum radiator available for the 2003-2004 Cobra?
3.17.
What size wheels and tires will fit in the rear without rubbing/scraping?
3.18.
How do I get rid of wheel hop?
3.19.
Is anyone using nitrous with a 2003 Cobra?
3.20.
Can the T-56 be replaced with an automatic?
3.21.
Can a live axle be installed in a 2003 Cobra? And is a live axle better for racing?
3.22.
Are there any aftermarket superchargers for the 2003 Cobra?
3.23.
Are you over spinning the Eaton blower with a smaller pulley?
3.24.
How much boost can the Cobra’s internals take?
3.25.
How do I check for detonation?
3.26.
Does running higher octane gas help?
3.27.
Are there any intercooler upgrades?
3.28.
Are there any handling upgrades?
3.29.
Are there any braking upgrades?
3.30.
How do I change the pulley belt?
3.31.
What is the right way to check my oil level?
3.32.
How do I get the traction control to stay off?
3.33.
What are the difference in dynos?
3.34.
What correction factor should I use for my dynos?
3.35.
How do I change the RPM the stock shift light engages at, and what is the maximum safe RPM with the stock internals?
3.36.
If I install long tube headers how much power will I gain?
3.37.
What are the limits of the Cobra’s stock fuel system?
3.38.
Why does my boost fluctuate with the pulley mod?
3.39.
What wheels are available for the Cobra?
3.40.
What drag radials are best?
3.41.
What is the difference between DRs and slicks?
3.42.
A would like to install a cooler thermostat? What are my choices and what do you recommend?
3.43.
Are there any “beyond bolt-on” mods available for the Cobra?
3.44.
What gauges match the factory gauges?
3.45.
Are there any gauge pods available?
3.46.
Is an Air/Fuel gauge useful?
3.47.
What does a pyrometer do?
3.48.
How do I install an aftermarket tachometer or shift light?
3.49.
What clutch components should be upgraded to handle more HP?
3.50.
Where can I find a list of ECU powertrain diagnostic codes?
3.52.
Does using a smaller upper pulley or larger lower crank pulley require that I install a larger alternator pulley to under drive the alternator?
4.
Drag Racing the Cobra
4.1.
What RPM is best to launch at?
4.2.
What should I do if I have wheel hop?
4.3.
What “tricks” will get me better times?
4.4.
What do stock Cobra’s run in the 1/4 and 1/8 mile?
4.5.
Should I do a burnout?
4.6.
How do I do a burnout?
4.7.
What is a “good” 60’ time?
4.8.
Should I powershift?
4.9.
Why do I keep missing gears?
4.10.
What is the best 1/4-mile time and trap speed so far for a modded 2003 Cobra?
5.
TSBs and Quality Issues
5.1.
The “pull” issue
5.2.
The “vibe” issue
5.3.
The “clunk” issue
5.4.
The “stall” issue
5.5.
The “tick” issue
5.6.
Paint problems
5.7.
Fitment problems
5.8.
How many threads do the stock heads have for the spark plugs?
5.9.
Window squeal
5.10.
Hard to Shift
5.11.
Clogged Cats
5.12.
Pedals Cracking
5.13.
Grinding gears
5.14.
Noisy shifter
5.15.
Clutch pedal vibration
5.16.
Dirty rear brakes
5.17.
Loose lug nuts
5.18.
Ultra-firm seats
5.19.
Poor clutch adjustment
5.20.
“Skunk” smell
5.21.
Pop in the front/rear of the car while turning
5.22.
Double sided tape showing from under spoiler
Description
Answer
The information provided in this FAQ is correct to the best of my knowledge, however I make no warranty, express or implied, regarding the use of, results of, or liability created from, application of this data. This information is presented in good faith, however I assume no liability whatsoever in regards to anything contained herein. If you don’t agree with this policy, stop reading now.
This is version 3.0 released on 12/1/2005.
The primary author of this document was Brian Hill. Changes, additions and updates are now authored by Bob Arthur. Contributors are many and varied, and therefore cannot always be named for the interest of space and time. Contributors will be included if they provide their complete name. All are greatly thanked for their contributions.
This document may be distributed freely, as long as it is unaltered in any way, but may not be sold or altered in any form without my express, written consent. If you wish to link this document from your website, feel free to do so, but please send me an e-mail and let me know.
For errors, omissions, or additions, please contact me at cobrabob@cox.net
What are the differences between the 2003-2004 Cobra?
Changes were mainly limited to color and trim. New exterior paint offerings for 2004 were Torch Red (re-introduced after being discontinued mid-year on the 2003), Screaming Yellow and Competition Orange. An optional Mystichrome package with an exterior paint treatment that changes color when viewed from different angles was offered for 2004. Inside the Mystichrome Cobra, the leather seat inserts and the steering wheel cover also shift colors. Interior wise, the 2004 Charcoal Gray seating added dark gray inserts. 2003's were lighter gray. Other differences: * The 2003 radio decks came with an AUX 20 pin port in the back and the '04 had the SAT button. * The door lock on the drivers side on '03 Cobras were black, 04 Cobras were chrome * The 2004 the cats were bigger * The 2003 had a small interior headliner cargo net. It was deleted for 2004. * The computer codes were different between the model years
Pricing? And what is the gas guzzler tax that was added to the 2003 Cobra invoice?
MSRP of the 2003-2004 Cobra was $37,545 for the convertible, and $33,300 for the Coupe, both without including tax/title/tag, destination charges. The 2003 Cobra also included a $1,000 gas guzzler* tax. Changes made to the '04 allowed the gas guzzler tax to be dropped. Invoice on the cars was $34,555 for the convertible and $30,693 for the Coupe. Dealer holdback was 3% of the MSRP. With X plan pricing (for Ford employees, family members, and friends), buyers could get the car for close to the invoice price. Used 2003-2004 coupes are in the $20,000. - $28,000. range depending on mileage and mods. Add approximately $2,000. for a convertible. It is still possible to find used Terminators with under 12K miles, with a bone-stock motor, but you'll pay on the high end of the above scale for one. If you are wondering why the 2003 had a gas guzzler tax and why the 2004 didn't, Ford made a change in the catalytic converters and, I believe, in the computer program which resulted in slightly improved fuel economy numbers. Here is some government information about the gas guzzler tax What is the Gas Guzzler Tax? The Energy Tax Act of 1978 established a Gas Guzzler Tax on the sale of new model year vehicles whose fuel economy fails to meet certain statutory levels. The gas guzzler tax applies only to cars (not trucks) and is collected by the IRS. The fuel economy figures used to determine the Gas Guzzler Tax are different from the fuel economy values provided on this web site and in the Fuel Economy Guide. The tax does not depend on your actual on-the-road mpg, which may be more or less than the EPA published value. The purpose of the Gas Guzzler Tax is to discourage the production and purchase of fuel inefficient vehicles. The amount of any applicable Gas Guzzler Tax paid by the manufacturer will be disclosed on the automobile's fuel economy label (the window sticker on new cars). Gas Guzzler Tax
Unadjusted MPG (combined)*
Tax
At least 22.5
No Tax
At least 21.5, but less than 22.5
$1,000.
At least 20.5, but less than 21.5
$1,300.
At least 19.5, but less than 22
$1,700.
At least 18.5, but less than 22
$2,100.
At least 17.5, but less than 22
$2,600.
At least 16.5, but less than 22
$3,000.
At least 15.5, but less than 22
$3,700.
At least 14.5, but less than 22
$4,500.
At least 13.5, but less than 22
$5,400.
At least 12.5, but less than 22
$6,400.
Less than 12.5
$7,700.
* The combined fuel economy MPG value (55% city, 45% highway) is used to determine tax liability. The MPG value is also adjusted slightly to account for differences in test procedures made since the base year, but it is not adjusted for in-use short fall. The unadjusted combined MPG of a vehicle can be approximated from the city and highway values provided in the Fuel Economy Guide and on this website by the following equation: (1/(.495/City MPG + .351/Highway MPG)) + .15 Since this is an approximate calculation, the actual gas guzzler tax may be off by one tax bracket.
How many were made? And when did production begin and end for the '03 and '04?
According, in part, to the book entitled '"Iron Fist, Lead Foot" by Frank Moriarty...... Production begins for early 2003 builds: May 8, 2002 Production begins for late 2003 builds: Sept. 29, 2002 (some say the date is actually earlier in September) Production ends for regular 2003 builds some time in early May (to be verified). The 10th Anniversary model was built in June/July of 2003 (to be verified). Production ends for 2004 builds: March 31, 2004 Production numbers for both the '03 and '04 models are available by CLICKING HERE.
What changes were made on the SVT 10th Anniversary Edition?
The 10th Anniversary Edition is mechanically the same as the standard 2003 Cobra. Trim changes were: Carbon fiber weave inserts on the shift boot, E-brake handle and steering wheel 10th anniversary SVT badging on the trunk and both front floor mats Red and black leather seating Red door inserts Red painted brake calipers Multi-spoke anthracite wheels with polished lip.
How can I get a replacement Owners Manual?
Helm Inc. has then. CLICK HERE to order on their website. You can also call them at (800) 782-4356. I believe the price is $44.95 and that includes the SVT Supplement and leather cover. Helms does all of the OEM factory manuals for Ford, GM, etc.
If you need the SVT Supplement Guide that came with the Mustang Owner's Manual, click CLICK HERE for a PDF file. If you need a copy of the Mustang Owner's Manual, click CLICK HERE for a PDF file. The 2003 SVT Cobra Dealer Brochure (16 pages) is no longer available from Ford, and is very hard to find. Occasionally you'll find one on eBay. If you're content with the electronic version, click CLICK HERE for a PDF version.
How can I get a copy of my original window sticker? And How can I get my Build Certificate?
Many who buy used Terminators ask how they can get a copy of the original window sticker. While it is possible to order a new one from your dealer, it is difficult to get them to do it. An easier way is to buy a reprint. Jeff Brown, a member of STVPerformance.com can get you one. His member ID is JBROWN1238. CLICK HERE for Jeff's email address. Click on this link for more information about Jeff Brown's replacement window stickers. How To Get A Window Sticker Copy Build Certificates (different from the Build Sheet) were printed and sent out at the end of the model runs. If you bought a used Cobra you can call SVT for a new copy of the Certificate. They will need your name and VIN number. They now charge you $40. for the Certificate. Call SVT and have your vehicle information handy.
SVT Phone Number: 1-866-377-8862 SVT Fax Number: 1-313-621-2500 SVT/Ford Performance Group address: Ford Performance Group P.O. Box 490 Dearborn, MI 48124 Hours of operation: Monday through Friday, 8:30 a.m. to 6:00 p.m. Eastern Time
Build documentation has been found in various places on the vehicle, typically wedged into gaps in the vehicle bodywork. A common location is under the rear bumper.
This is a question that has been tossed around more than a mixed salad. The popular rumor is that the blue stripe means that the head was replaced by the dealer (or at the factory) to fix the tick issue. First, some facts. The tick issue can occur on any 2003 or 2004 Cobra, and also Mach 1s. The latest head, and the one that fixed the tick issue, wasn't released until 01/2005. Second, the blue stripe has appeared on 2003 and 2004 Cobras/Mach 1s from the factory. It has appeared on both the driver side and passenger side heads. So it has no correlation to the fix issue that we're are definitely aware of. As far as what the blue stripe means, JB from SVTPerformance.com belongs to a local Cobra club and they toured the factory a couple of years ago. This was the explanation given at the factory. "Assembly plants use just-in-time inventory, meaning parts are not stored up but are delivered daily. The paint markers provide a visual confirmation of when particular batches have been purged from the line. They show up on other Ford engines besides the '03/'04 Cobra. The bottom-line is that the blue stripe doesn't mean a head has been replaced by a dealer".
What things should I check for when buying a used 2003 or 2004 Cobra?
Questions to ask the seller 1) What are the reason(s) that you selling the car? 2) How long have you owned the vehicle? 3) Are you the original owner? 4) Has the vehicle ever been driven in rain or snow? If so, how often? 5) Has the vehicle been garaged when not in use? 6) Was the car raced? If so, how often? 7) Was the car used as a daily driver? 8) Has the car been smoked in? 9) Do you have all of the maintenance records? 10) Are there any existing/known mechanical issues (engine, drivetrain, suspension, chassis, etc) with the car? 11) Has ANYTHING (glass, wheels, body panels, tires, seats, transmission, engine, etc) been replaced or repainted since the vehicle was purchased? 12) Are there any chips in the windshield? 13) Is there significant chipping on the front bumper from road debris? 14) What has the car been into the dealership for in the past, in terms of maintenance, warranty or any other mechanical work? (including Technical Service Bulletins, general warranty work and even things as simple like oil changes)? 15) In what condition are the tires (front and rear)? What brand/size are they? 16) Are the wheels stock or aftermarket? If aftermarket, what brand and size are they? 17) What specific modifications have you done to the car? Have the seller state ALL (intake, exhaust, tune, pulley, shifter, clutch quadrant, shocks, springs, etc). And be aware that some seller hide the fact that the car was modded by removing all mods prior to a re-sale. Be asking this question and getting the answer in writing you are potentially protecting yourself if you find out later that the seller was deceptive and didn't disclose the mods. 18) What is its build number (on Certificate of Ownership from SVT)? 19) What was the build date? 20) What is the VIN number so that I can run a Carfax on it? 21) What documentation do you have with the car? The 03/04 Terminators came with a black zipper pouch that contained four booklets including (a) “Mustang Owners Guide”, (b) “SVT Mustang Cobra Owner’s Guide Supplement”, (c) “Scheduled Maintenance Guide” and, (d) “Warranty Guide”). Does the seller have this pouch with all of these booklets? In addition, most original 2003 Cobra owners received a hard cover book entitled "Powered By SVT". If possible, get this book. It's a good one. 22) Does the car have an extended warranty? If so, be sure to get the documentation. Third party verifications: Get the VIN number and run a Carfax to help you determine the ownership history of the vehicle and to determine if it has been in any major accidents. Be aware though that this is not 100% reliable. What is contained in the history is what has been reported. It is not uncommon for a repair shop to not report a repair.
Before buying any used Cobra, take the VIN to a Ford dealer and have them run it through their warranty system (OASIS) to verify that the car has a warranty and to determine what warranty repairs have been performed.
Things To Check For 1) Look for previous mods. Look at the end of the blower drive snout, in the center of the pulley. If there is any form of a dot in the middle of the shaft, it has probably had a pulley mod done. 2) Listen for strange noises coming from the motor, suspension, body or interior, whining in transmission or rear end, clunking in the drivetrain, etc. 3) Look at the throttle body bolts, intake clamp screws, etc. Little things for signs of being messed with. 4) Check for the tick issue. Don't confuse this with normal fuel injector noise. It will be louder. If it is the real tick, it will get louder with rpm. CLICK HERE to listen to what the 'tick issue' sounds like. 5) Make sure the clutch doesn't engage too low. If so, it might need to be adjusted. 6) Look at tires. Abnormal wear, rubber residue in wheel wells, or new tires on low mileage car might indicate it was raced. 7) Look at brake pad wear. 8) Look in the filler cap for burnt oil residue, indicating possible infrequent oil changes or hard driving/high operating temps. 9) Look for signs of cooling system leaks. Running low coolant with aluminum heads is very bad. 10) Check entire body and exterior for defects. Check for dents or visible damage. a. Dents and door dings. b. Front spoiler damage. c. Check the paint surface for scratches, chips, flaking, over-spray or orange peel. Check the hood. There is a TSB for flaking paint on the hood. d. Inspect the rear spoiler; the 3M tape in known to creep out, if this is the case it'll need to be adjusted or trimmed. e. Check for catalytic converter damage: Rap on cats and mufflers looking for rattles. 11) Check for system leaks and drips: a. Valve covers and engine b. Rear end and differential c. Transmission d. Power Steering and ABS e. Radiator 12) Check Wheels and Tires: a. Check wheels for damage from encounters with curbs. b. Check that all lug nuts are tight. c. Ensure all locking lug nuts are in place (one on each wheel). Be sure the puzzle lug is in the console or trunk. d. Check the air pressure in the Tires. 13) Verify that the mileage is acceptable to you. 14) Check entire interior for defects: a. Check steering wheel and seats for scratches, cuts, stains and wear. b. Check power window operation. Some windows stick in the down position and squeak when rolling up. c. Check power top operation if it is a convertible. d. Check for fraying or damage to convertible top. e. Check dead pedal (by clutch) for looseness. f. Check center console trim: Some have found that clips were missing or broken g. Push on the trim around the A/C vents-- it shouldn't move. h. Check the instrument lighting for proper operation. i. Verify the cargo net is in the trunk (only early '03 cars included the net). If not, nets are available through your Ford dealer for around $35. j. Verify convertible toneau cover is in trunk. k. Check for rubbing of passenger seat against passenger door. There is a TSB to fix this -- 03-01-05. 15) Check the Engine for the following: a. Check oil level. b. Check windshield washing fluid level. c. Check Radiator Coolant level. d. Check for stains on the motor and on engine bay components which might indicate fluid leaks. 16) Test Drive the Vehicle and check for the following (TSBs for most of this issues can be found HERE): a. Do the doors lock on startup? b. Check for rough idle: Idle should be about 750rpm c. Listen for ticking valve train (TSB 3521). Stand next to the driver's front wheel and listen with the hood up. DO NOT confuse this with normal fuel injector noise. d. Check for any drivetrain vibrations, especially at higher speeds. e. Check alignment. Does the Vehicle pull to either side? f. Is there any vibration during braking? Pulls to either side during braking? Brakes OK? g. Misfire or stumbling at moderate RPMs during test drive? Could be caused by a faulty FRPS (Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor). h. Stalling on deceleration? There is a TSB for this - 17-54-2. i. Clunk noise from the suspension while turning? j. Driveline clunk during acceleration after coasting? k. Belt Slipping or squealing? l. Does the clutch have any play, rattle, or a loose feeling? m. Listen for rubbing of passenger seat against passenger door while driving. n. Check for "skunk" smell after test drive (more evidence of plugged cats). o. Check carpet under gas pedal. There have been cases of the carpet interfering with the pedal and causing a potentially dangerous WOT issue. There is a recall for this. I cannot stress enough how important it is to take a good test drive before you commit to a purchase. Don't take the seller's word for the condition of the car. And don't let the seller drive. YOU must be the one to do the test drive in order to check all or most of the above things to check for. If you do buy a car without test driving it, be aware that if you encounter issues you might not be able to back out once you've paid for it and signed a contract. Also remember that any 2003-2004 Cobra without an extended warranty will likely be sold "as is". Another reason to get a good test drive. If you buy a used Terminator, how the car was cared for should determine what maintenance tasks are needed when you take delivery. Normally you should only have to change the oil/filter, and check the air filter, fluid levels, brakes, clutch, spark plugs, etc. Other detailing may be desired or required depending on the condition of the exterior, interior and engine bay. Lastly, if you are buying what is described as a "stock" or "near stock" Terminator, do the visual checks for previous motor mods, but most important, get the seller's claim in writing. It is all too common for people who have modded their Terminators to remove all or most of the mods, and then sell it as a "stock" or "near stock" car. Simply because they can either make more money doing this, or because they know most buyers prefer a stock Terminator (at least motor wise). A seller is unlikely to hide previous mods if he has to put it in writing. This most neglected step is for the buyer's protection and for his peace of mind. The more information you can learn about the car you're looking at the better. It might just help insure you are definitely buying what the vehicle is represented to be. When you take delivery of your Terminator, one of the first things you should do is check the A/F. If it happens to be too lean you'll be driving a time bomb. Get the car onto a local dyno and check the A/F. It's nice to have baseline numbers anyway. Or use a wideband to check the A/F. If the A/F is too lean get a new tune ASAP.
Educate your self about these cars as much as possible. Forums such as SVTPerformance.com and ModularFords.com are except sources of information.
All exterior colors for both model years can be found CLICK HERE. Convertible Top- Black or Parchment (With Red Fire, Torch Red, Black or Oxford White Exteriors Only) Interior- Dark Charcoal with choice of Medium Parchment or Medium Graphite accents (dark accents were added for 2004). The 10th Anniversary model has red accents. The 2004 Mystichrome model has special seating, steering wheel and shifter boot that changes color.
What options are available?
The only options for the 2003/2004 Cobra’s were the spoiler delete and chrome wheels. There was also a 10th Anniversary model for 2003 and the Mystichrome model for 2004. Each had unique trim pieces.
Unfortunately, no. Neither the '03 or '04 (which has the Mach 460 system) can play MP3s. Nor can even year play MP3 files on a CD. However, to my knowledge regular 2003 & 2004 Mustangs (which have a different audio system) can play MP3s with the standard CD player. If you are looking to use an MP3 player with the stock audio system, controlled by the stock controls, go to this link for some great information. http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/showthread.php?t=305510
No. The yellow warning stickers are adhered to the cloth very strongly, and will most likely leave lasting residue if you remove them.
What are some good web sites for 2003 Cobra information?
The best focused 03 Cobra sites around are svtperformance.com and modularfords.com. However, the 2003 Cobra shares many components with earlier mustangs, so many general mustang sites can be helpful as well.
On the interstate, around 20 MPG (17-22) should be the norm. In the city, it depends on how much you like the loud pedal. General mileage for normal driving is around 14-18 MPG, but if you drive it hard, you may see as little as 6-8 MPG.
How do you clean the Alcantera (imitation suede) on the seats? Where can I buy this material to re-upholster my seats?
The seating material is called Alcantara (a brand of Italian Suede). I have a PDF file which gives general cleaning tips. If you would like to see it, CLICK HERE. Also read the cleaning instructions/tips below. Regular Weekly Maintenance Note: To preserve the beauty of your upholstery, excessively vigorous cleaning of accumulated dirt should be avoided. Regular cleaning is recommended. Just avoid rubbing too hard. The use of steam machines is not recommended. If you clean your seats weekly, it is sufficient to dust the fabric using a soft brush, a dry cloth, or a vacuum cleaner. After dusting, run a lightly damp white cotton cloth over them. Avoid the use of printed absorbent cloths/papers as they can release ink onto the fabric. Annual Cleaning You can clean Alcantara® fabric by using specific products listed at www.alcantara.it in the furniture/maintenance section. In the absence of the above-mentioned products, you can dust the fabric with care, dampen a soft cloth in clean water, wring it thoroughly and run it over the whole Alcantara® fabric, making sure you don't wet it excessively. Then rinse the cloth or sponge and repeat as necessary. Leave to dry (overnight) Once dried, in order to restore the fabric, brush it delicately with a soft bristle brush. Stain Removal For localized stains, and when the specific products for the cleaning of Alcantara® are not available, follow these cleaning instructions: • Address the stain within 30 minutes and begin treating it from the outside edge into the center to prevent the stain from spreading. • Never pour a cleaning product directly onto the Alcantara® fabric. • Before treating the stain, remove any of the substance that has fallen on the upholstery. • Avoid rubbing to prevent the stain from spreading or going deep into the fabric. • Use a white cloth or a well wrung sponge when removing stains. If using a sponge, rinse it in clean water and wring it well between each wipe. Special Instructions for Water-Soluble Stains It is recommended, depending on the type of stain, that you should use water, lemon juice, or pure ethyl alcohol and follow the instructions below. Fruit juice, jam, jelly, syrup, ketchup: Use lukewarm water, rinse by dabbing with clean water. Blood, egg, excrement, urine: Use cold water; avoid warm water because it makes these substances coagulate, rinse by dabbing with clean water. Liquors, alcoholic beverages, wine, beer, coke and tea: Use lukewarm water; if the color mark remains, treat it with lemon juice and then rinse it well. Copying pencil, cocoa, chocolate, pastry with cream or chocolate, ice-cream, mustard: Use lukewarm water; rinse by dabbing with clean water. Vinegar, hair gel, tomato sauce, coffee with sugar: Use lemon juice and then wipe with lukewarm water rinse by dabbing with clean water. Special Instructions for Stains Non-Soluble in Water It is recommended, depending on the type of stain, that you use water, lemon juice or pure ethyl alcohol and follow the instructions below. Lipstick, foundation, mascara, eye-shadow, perfume, shoe polish, oil and grease in general, grass stains and felt tips in general (including the indelible kind): Rub with ethyl alcohol, then with water and rinse. For grass stains and felt tips, which are quite difficult to remove, especially on light colors, it is necessary to intervene as soon as possible in order to prevent them from becoming too “dry”. Chewing-gum and wax: Put a plastic bag full of ice on the stain; when the material becomes hard remove the pieces and then treat with ethyl alcohol. Special Instructions for Resistant stains Repeat the above described treatments as often as necessary. Even stains that are not soluble in water often require to be treated afterwards with water. Special Instructions for Old stains of Unknown Origin First of all treat with lukewarm water, then rinse by dabbing them with clean water. If you see that the stain begins to dissolve with water, repeat the treatment as often as necessary. Let it dry and, if necessary treat with ethyl alcohol. If you are looking to buy Alcantara material to re-upholster your seats, it is available through Gulf Fabrics in many colors, including the stock Cobra colors. Click HERE to go to their website, then click on the Alcantara link, and then click on Colors.
How can I find out when the warrantee started on my Cobra?
Your local Ford dealer can give you this information. If they have done service for you in the past, they can easily look up the information on the computer. If not, they will need your VIN number.
How do I remove the inner gray coating on my OEM chrome wheels?
For those who didn't know, Ford added a silver coating to the chrome plate on the back of the wheel. Be assured that under the gray coating is pure chrome. And according to Stang2WRX, aircraft remover won't harm the chrome plating. It will only remove the gray coating over the chrome. Some have used a very fine steel wool to remove the coating, but this method is easier and faster. NOTE: If you decide to use the aircraft remover, test it on a small area of the wheel coating to insure it won't harm the chrome. Personally I would stick with using fine steel wool.
Thanks to Stang2WRX from SVTPerformance.com providing this info. Click on the thumbnails to enlarge.
Step 1: Make sure you have all of the necessary supplies: -Wheel -"Aircraft Remover" (available at AutoZone) -Container to pour smaller amounts of the stripper into -Paint brush (3" or 4" recommended) -Heavy-duty rubber gloves -Safety glasses -Bucket of hot/warm water -Old sponge -Car wash soap -Hose/water supply
Step 2: Once you have your eyewear and gloves on, pour a small bowl full of aircraft remover. Then apply it to the painted part of the rim with the brush in "swirling motions" (you can only do 1/4th to 1/3rd of the wheel at a time if you want to do it right). Let it sit for 2 minutes.
Step 3: Use an old car wash sponge and dip it into hot water, ring some of the water out, and begin to wipe off the remover, the paint should be freely coming off, if it's not then you either didn't "swirl in the remover" with the brush enough or you didn't give it enough time to set.
NOTE: Be careful that you don't let it sit for too long, as the silver paint will begin to set again. Repeat this procedure around the rim. *Keep away from the center caps* Step 4: Empty your bucket and prepare a bucket as though you're going to wash your car. Use a soft wheel brush and wash down the wheel, and tire as some residue may be left over on the wheel. Dry and...
How do I change the Eaton super-charger oil?
Special thanks to airmanb2b on SVTPerformance.com for this write-up. Note that Ford says the factory fill is good for 100,000 miles but if you are using a smaller upper pulley to increase boost you are over-spinning the blower and should change the oil more often. Click on the thumbnails to enlarge. Parts and Tools Required 1 large syringe (any pharmacy) 8 oz. Mobil 10w30 motor oil - (10W30 recommended by Stiegemeier Porting), or use Ford E9SZ-19577-A or GM 1234-5982. 3/16 Allen wrench 2 rags 1 small bowl or cup (to put old oil in) Approx. 6 inches of clear fish tank hose (any pet department)
First step is to locate the oil drain/fill plug
Use the the 3/16 allen wrench and unscrew the plug. The plug will be tight the first time. Don't worry. Just put a little ass into it. Lay rags under the plug. You will get a bit of oil out. It's inevitable so just let it drain on the rags. Watch how it flows out. That's important later.
Push the hose into the hole as far as it will go and suck out the oil. It will take a bit depending on the size of syringe. Repeat until you get only air. Put oil in cup or bowl.
Once the Eaton is empty, you will have some oil in the hose that you cannot get out. Purge the line with new oil to get the old out of the hose.
Keep filling the syringe with new oil and squirting it into the Eaton until it flows out like it did when you first removed the plug. Should hold about 8oz or so give or take. If you have small fingers, you can stick your pinky in the hole and feel the oil. Should be level with the bottom of the drain/fill hole. Once the oil is flowing out freely and you cannot put anymore in, install the plug. Don't over tighten! Just snug.
Is it worth it to port my new heads and give them a quality valve job?
The latest heads have improved cooling passages which are designed to eliminate the heat issues experienced with the older heads (the so called "tick" issue). They also have additional spark plug threads. They retail for approximately $1,400. for the set, and are worth investing in if you can afford it. The following comments are from JimmySideCarr on SVTPerformance.com and are well worth reading if you are buying these new heads. "As good as even the older versions of our heads are, the factory valve jobs are not the greatest. Some are nearly perfect but many have issues! Even with a new set of the improved heads, if it was me I would have mine treated to a pro quality valve job. The porting IMHO is not a big deal. I can tidy up the overall quality of the port finish myself, including a casting flash clean up and doing a bowl clean up (but NOT polish). I don't believe there is much power to be found in porting these revised heads. Not so with the valve job itself! I believe THIS is where people are finding the improvements. With a positive displacement engine the subtle little shaping improvements that work so well on naturally aspirated engines (that rely on air pressure differentials for cylinder filling) I believe have very little effect on a PD engine (you can't suck air past the rotors of the blower). If ported Terminator heads were that big of an improvement you would be reading about crazy boost drops after porting, and I'm not seeing that.
Now if our heads were junk (which they aren't), then porting would be worth doing. If someone is shooting for a 600+ rwhp car then the new heads are worth it IMO.
The additional plug threads alone will pull more heat out of the combustion chamber face! The additional coolant flow and better cooled exhaust valve guides also makes for improved detonation resistance and the ability to run more timing in the tune and that equals POWER!
If tuners are already dialing in more timing if you are running the LDC or Even Flow left head cooling mod then you know they are going to be able to take advantage of the the elevated detonation protection threshold afforded by these new heads."
If you are going to store your car for a period of more than two months, the following are recommendations to follow. * Fill the tank with gas and add a gas stabilizer to keep your gas from becoming stale. * Change the oil and filter. * Thorough wash the exterior of the car, wheels, and tires. If possible, remove each wheel and thoroughly clean them. Especially the back side where dirt and road debris accumulates. Polish the wheels and reinstall. Polish/wax the exterior. Clean/detail the engine bay. When the car is sufficiently cleaned and the paint treated to a good coating of carnauba wax or polish, consider covering it with a quality car cover from California Car Cover or Big Sky Car Covers, or another high quality cover. * To prevent tire flat spots, use jack stands to raise the car off the floor. Set the stands under the control arms so that the weight of the car is still on the suspension, and just high enough to keep the weight off of the tires. Putting the jack stands under the spring perches is recommended by many. If jack stands are not available you can use wood blocks. Just remember that the suspension likes to be loaded. It's heavy. Many recommend that you just inflate the tires to the max and put carpet squares under each tire. * Check the tire air pressure and be sure all four tires are the same correct pressure. Note that regular air can leak during storage due to faulty valve stems, wheel irregularities, etc. Costco warehouse stores use nitrogen to fill tires. It is the only place that I know of that has nitrogen due to the expense of the equipment I guess. However, nitrogen is preferred for a number of reasons. The most important IMO is that it is heavier than air and is less likely to leak out (larger molecules). So if you have a Costco in your area consider replacing the air with nitrogen. You'll have more consistent air pressures without leaking. * Disconnect the negative battery cable. When you're ready to take it out of storage hook it back up. Some prefer to use a battery tender. * Place a few moisture absorber packs (desiccants) in the interior to absorb any moisture. Large packs are usually available at most do-it-yourself building supply or hardware chains. A couple of bags on the front and rear floors, as well as a few more in the trunk, and you'll have dampness protection for the entire winter season. As an alternative, kitty litter can be used in small containers. * Get some Arm & Hammer baking soda to put in the cabin. Open the tabs and place the entire box on the floor. I'll put one box on the rear floor and one on the front floor. This will prevent any musty smell. * Cover the car with a high quality car cover. The cover will keep the paint surface clean and protect it from scratches if you (or others) will be working around the car. * Inflatable bubble covers are also available. You basically drive your car into the bubble and inflate it. Users state that air is continually kept flowing through the bubble and this totally keeps out all moisture. So rusting of the brake rotors, for example, is not an issue. I don't know anything more about this method so you should research it before using it. * Change your oil again when the car comes out of storage. * When starting the car after long term storage, hold the accelerator to the floor (which will turn off the fuel injectors) while starting. Turn the car over for about 10 seconds to get the oil flowing to the top of the engine. Then start the car normally. It is also recommended to pull all the plugs first so the starter isn't working against compression. It is my understanding, though, that if you have a BAP it can render this trick useless, reportedly due to the upgraded wiring coming directly from the battery. The best way to keep mice out of your car is to keep them out of the storage area, usually a garage. Keep doors and windows sealed as tightly as possible. Keep food out of your building and cars. If there’s nothing for mice to eat, they won’t usually hang around. Pay close attention not to leave scraps or crumbs inside the vehicle. Vacuum the carpets, seats, under-seat area, console and glove box. Use probe tools to get at the petrified French fries on the side of the seat. LOL! Then shampoo the carpets so they are nice & clean and smell fresh. Traps and poisons are a line of defense against mice. They come in a variety of models and prices. They work, but remember that bait traps are designed to attract mice and then kill them. Keeping the mice away in the first place works best. Some people prefer to put triangle shaped tube traps, that have a sticky base, near the garage door on both sides where the floor meets the wall. Rodents normally walk along these edges so places traps there works. In most cases, mice enter a car by scampering up the tires. If the vehicle is stored without tires, it is a bit harder for them to get inside. Tireless storage will also keep your tires from “flat spotting.” However, the 2003/2004 Cobra is heavy and the suspension likes to be loaded. So jacking up the car is not one of my recommendations in this case, although some people do it. Rodents can nest several places in a vehicle: the engine compartment, the interior and the trunk. They’re drawn to the warmth of an engine or heater motor. They will eat electrical wires and even spark plug wires. Mice can also get into cars through holes around cables, pedal shafts, steering columns and so on. If you can seal all these openings, mice can’t enter. Leave the sun visors in the down position. If you want to keep the windows slightly open for better airflow, cover the opening with screening. Usually, these creatures can’t get into a trunk if you seal interior openings; they usually enter the trunk from the rear seat. Some cars have drain holes in the spare tire well. These holes should be taped. Some people put mothballs on the floor around the car. The line of mothballs should have no gaps at any point. Other car owners place mothballs or scented soap in a cake pan inside the car to keep mice away. Mice don’t like the mothball smell, but neither will you. If you go the mothball route, you can help to eliminate the smell by putting a scented candle under the seat on a hot day. Zipper bags seal the whole car. There are two types. The first is a big plastic sack with a zipper. A second type is a plastic bubble supported by a curtain of air. The air pump draws little current and promotes better airflow. Both bags work well if you use them properly. The trouble is the hassle. You must be very careful not to trap moisture in the bag. While the air-curtain type won’t trap moisture, it does require electricity. One final step in fighting rodent infestation is to make spot checks every couple of weeks. If you see droppings or notice that unpleasant mouse smell, the steps you have taken so far aren’t working. In this case, the first thing to do is to get rid of the mice. Then you’ll need to protect the vehicle from being re-infested. If you inspect the car on a regular basis, you should be able to remedy the problem before damage is done.
Is it safe to spray wash my engine? Will it cause any drivability issues?
It is fairly common for Terminator owners to spray wash their engines to keep the engine and engine bay looking factory fresh. However, occasionally people experience an engine miss after spraying down their engine. The most common reason is a damaged COP (coil on pack). Water can seep into the spark plug hole where engine heat turns it into steam and damages the coil. Here are some things you can do to prevent the problem: 1) Never wash the engine without covering the coil packs 2) Apply a liberal coating of dielectric grease to the rubber seal on the coil where it connects to the engine. To test, try the following: You will need to remove the coil (COP). You will need to make two resistance measurements with a digital multimeter, one for the primary side and one for the secondary side. The first measurement is for the primary side of the coil. Where it connects normally to the connector will be two connections or terminals you will need to measure across, this if for the primary side. Connect your meter leads to the (+) and (-) terminal. The resistance should be somewhere in the neighborhood of 0.55 ohms. The secondary measurement will be from the (+) terminal and the terminal that is connected to the spark plug when it is on the car. This measurement should be in the neighborhood of 5,500 ohms, or 5.5M ohms. If either measurement shows 0 ohms or “overload” “OL” “999.999” or what ever your meter reads when there is an open the coil is bad. What may be a good idea is to take two coils off then you can compare the readings you get.
---General Specifications--- Lubricants and Sealants Motorcraft Premium Engine Coolant VC-4-A (In Oregon VC-5, In Canada CXC-10) ESE-M97B44-A Motorcraft Premium Gold Engine Coolant VC-7-A (In Oregon VC-7-B) WSS-M97B51-A1 SAE 5W-20 Engine Premium Synthetic Blend Engine Oil XO-5W20-QSP WSS-M2C153-H Metal Surface Cleaner F4AZ-19A536-RA WSE-M5B392-A Silicone Gasket and Sealant F7AZ-19554-EA WSE-M4G323-A4 Pipe Sealant with Teflon® D8AZ-19554-A WSK-M2G350-A2 Threadlock 262 E2FZ-19554-B WSK-M2G351-A6 Engine Displacement 4.6L (4V) (281 CID) Number of cylinders 8 Bore 90.2 mm (3.55 in) Stroke 90.0 mm (3.54 in) Firing order 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8 Oil pressure 138-310 kPa Oil capacity 6 ± 0.25 (a) Compression ratio 8.5:1 Cylinder Head and Valve Train Cylinder head gasket surface flatness 0.10 mm (0.004 inch) max. overall Combustion chamber volume 52.6 ± 0.5 cm Valve arrangement (front to rear) (b) Intake (left hand): S-P-S-P-S-P-S-P Intake (right hand): P-S-P-S-P-S-P-S Exhaust (left hand): E-E-E-E-E-E-E-E Exhaust (right hand): E-E-E-E-E-E-E-E Valve guide bore diameter 7.015-7.044 mm (0.2762-0.2773 in) Valve stem diameter—intake 6.975-6.995 mm (0.2754-0.2746 inch) Valve stem diameter—exhaust 6.949-6.970 mm (0.2744-0.2736 inch) Valve stem-to-guide clearance—intake 0.020-0.069 mm (0.00078-0.00272 inch) Valve stem-to-guide clearance—exhaust 0.046-0.094 mm (0.0018-0.0037 in) Valve head diameter—intake 37 mm (1.46 inch) Valve head diameter—exhaust 30 mm (1.18 inch) Valve face runout 0.05 mm (0.002 in) Valve face angle 45.5 degrees Valve seat width—intake 1.8-2.2 mm (0.071-0.086 inch) Valve seat width—exhaust 1.8-2.2 mm (0.071-0.086 inch) Valve seat runout 0.05 mm (0.002 inch) Valve seat angle 45 degrees Valve spring free length—intake 42.16 mm (1.6598 inch) Valve spring free length—exhaust 42.16 mm (1.6598 inch) Valve spring squareness 2 degrees Valve spring compression pressure—intake 711.47 N @ 26.19 mm (159.9 lb-ft @ 1.031 inch) Valve spring compression pressure—exhaust 711.47 N @ 26.19 mm (159.9 lb-ft @ 1.031 inch) Valve spring installed height 36.14 mm (1.4228 in) Valve spring installed pressure—intake 289.1 N @ 36.14 mm (64.99 lb-ft @ 1.4228 inch) Valve spring installed pressure—exhaust 289.1 N @ 36.14 mm (64.99 lb-ft @ 1.4228 inch) Roller follower ratio 1.8:1 Hydraulic Lash Adjuster Diameter 16.000-15.988 mm (0.6299-0.6294 inch) Clearance-to-bore 0.018-0.069 mm (0.000709-0.002717 inch) Service limit 0.016 mm (1.0006299 inch) Hydraulic leakdown rate (c) 5-25 seconds Collapsed lash adjuster gap 0.80-1.20 mm (0.0315-0.0472 inch) Camshaft Theoretical valve lift @ 0 lash—intake (primary and secondary) 10.0 mm (0.3937 inch) Theoretical valve lift @ 0 lash—exhaust 10.0 mm (0.3937 inch) Lobe lift 5.54 mm (0.218 in) Allowable lobe lift loss 0.130 mm (0.0051 in) Journal diameter 26.962-26.936 mm (1.0615-1.0605 inch) Camshaft journal bore inside diameter 27.012-26.987 mm (1.0635-1.0625 in) Camshaft journal-to bearing clearance 0.025-0.076 mm (0.00098-0.002992 inch) Runout 0.025 mm (0.0010 in) End play 0.025-0.165 mm (0.00098-0.00649 inch) Cylinder Block Cylinder bore diameter 90.2-90.239 mm Cylinder bore maximum taper 0.016 mm Cylinder bore maximum out-of-round 0.016 mm Main bearing bore diameter 72.402-72.422 mm Head gasket surface flatness 0.15 mm (0.006 in) max. overall Crankshaft Main bearing journal diameter 67.493 mm Main bearing journal maximum taper 0.05 mm Main bearing journal maximum out-of round 0.05 mm Main bearing journal-to-cylinder block clearance 0.023-0.055 mm Connecting rod journal diameter 52.983-53.003 mm Connecting rod journal maximum taper 0.004 mm (0.0002 in) Connecting rod journal maximum out-of-round 0.004 mm (0.0002 in) Crankshaft maximum end play 0.130-0.301 mm Thrust bearing journal diameter 67.493 mm Thrust bearing journal maximum out-of round 0.05 mm Thrust bearing journal maximum taper 0.05 mm Thrust bearing journal length 17.725-17.775 mm Piston and Connecting Rod Piston diameter 90.180-90.191 mm Piston-to-cylinder bore clearance -0.010/+0.026 mm Piston ring end gap — compression (top) 0.30 mm Piston ring end gap — compression (bottom) 0.50 mm Piston ring end gap — compression (oil ring) 0.65 mm Piston ring groove width — compression (top) 1.53-1.549 mm Piston ring groove width — compression (bottom) 1.519-1.539 mm Piston ring groove width — oil ring 3.031-3.055 mm Piston ring width — compression (top) 1.47-1.49 mm Piston ring width — compression (bottom) 1.47-1.49 mm Piston ring width — oil ring 2.854-2.984 mm Piston ring-to groove clearance — compression (top) 0.04-0.079 mm Piston ring-to groove clearance — compression (bottom) 0.029-0.069 mm Piston ring-to groove clearance — oil ring 0.047-0.201 mm Piston pin bore diameter 22.0042-21.998 mm Piston pin diameter 21.991-29.994 mm Piston pin length 61.60-62.03 mm Piston pin-to-piston fit 0.0058-0.0132 mm Connecting rod-to-pin clearance 0.018-0.033 mm Connecting rod pin bore diameter 22.012-22.024 mm Connecting rod length 150.7 mm Connecting rod maximum allowed bend 0.038 mm per 25 mm Connecting rod maximum allowed twist 0.050 mm per 25 mm Connecting rod bearing bore diameter 56.866-56.886 mm Connecting rod bearing-to-crankshaft clearance 0.027-0.069 mm Connecting rod side clearance 0.15-0.45 mm (a) With installation of a new filter. (b) P=Primary, S=Secondary, E=Exhaust (c) Time necessary for plunger to leak down 1.6 mm of travel with 222 N force and leak down fluid in tappet. Miscellaneous Specs Inner serpentine belt - 6 rib. 96". Here's a Gates link for more info. Click Here. Supercharger belt - Stock belt is 75.1". Gates stock number is K080751. Gatorback stock number is 4080750. For other than the stock upper and lower pullies, use my Belt Selection Guide. Torque Specifications Nm lb-ft lb-in (note that a dash means that particular spec isn't used) A/C compressor bolts 25 18 — A/C peanut fittings 8 — 71 A/C muffler nut 25 18 — Accelerator bracket bolts 10 — 89 Battery tray bolts 11 8 — Belt idler support bracket assembly fasteners 25 18 — Camshaft sprocket bolt 115 85 — Coolant bypass tube studs 25 18 — Coolant bypass tube bolts 25 18 — Coolant hose and tube assembly bolt 25 18 — Cooling fan motor and shroud bolts 10 — 89 Connecting rod bolt Stage 1: Tighten to 25 Nm (18 lb-ft). Stage 2: Tighten to 80 Nm (59 lb-ft). Engine front cover 25 Nm (18 lb-ft). Drive belt tensioner bolts 25 18 — Cylinder head bolt Tighten the bolts in six stages, in the sequence shown. Stage 1: Tighten to 40 Nm (30 lb-ft). Stage 2: Tighten an additional 90 degrees. Stage 3: Loosen the bolts a minimum of one full turn. Stage 4: Tighten to 40 Nm (30 lb-ft). Stage 5: Tighten an additional 90 degrees. Stage 6: Tighten an additional 90 degrees. Idler pulley bracket 25 18 — Power steering pump bolts 25 18 — Power steering hose fitting 65 48 — Power steering hose bracket bolt 10 — 89 Pulley to crankshaft bolt tighten the bolt in four stages. Stage 1: Tighten to 90 Nm (66 lb-ft). Stage 2: Loosen the bolt one full turn. Stage 3: Tighten to 50 Nm (37 lb-ft). Stage 4: Tighten an additional 90 degrees. EGR valve to intake manifold 10Nm(89inlbs) Engine coolant degas bottle bolts 10 — 89 Exhaust manifold studs 25 18 — Generator bolts 25 18 — Generator support bracket bolts 25 18 — Hood prop bolt 10 — 89 Hood mounting nuts 12 9 — Heater water inlet tube 10 — 89 Heater water outlet tube 24 18 — Lower intake manifold-to-cylinder head bolt 10 Nm (89 lb-in) Main bearing cap bolt-vertical main bearing cap fasteners Stage 1: Tighten to 40 Nm (30 lb-ft). Stage 2: Tighten an additional 90 degrees jack screws against the cylinder block Stage 1: Tighten to 5 Nm (44 lb-in). Stage 2: Tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb-in). side bolts: 21Nm(15 ftlbs) Oil filter adapter bolt 25 18 — Oil bypass filter to adapter 50 37 — Oil pump screen cover and tube-to-oil pump bolt 10 — 89 Oil pan-to-cylinder block bolt Stage 1: Tighten to 20 Nm (15 lb-ft). Stage 2: Rotate an additional 60 degrees Oil pump-to-cylinder block bolt 10 — 89 Radio ignition interference capacitor bolts 25 18 — Oil pump screen and pickup tube-to-main bearing cap stud spacer bolt 25 18 — Water pump pulley bolts 25 18 — Throttle body spacer nuts 25 18 — Vacuum accessory bracket fasteners 10 — 89 Valve cover bolt 10 — 89 Wiring harness support bracket 25 18 — Water pump-to-cylinder block bolt 25 18 — EGR valve to exhaust manifold tube nuts 40 30 — Power steering pump to engine 25 18 — Power steering hose bracket nut 25 18 — Power steering reservoir bracket fasteners 10 — 89 Supercharger degas bottle bolts 10 — 89 Camshaft cap cluster to cylinder head 10 — 89 Timing chain tensioner bolts—primary 25 18 — Timing chain tensioner bolts—secondary 10 — 89 Ignition coil cover bolts 10 — 89 Generator mounting bracket retainers 10 — 89 Oil level indicator tube retainer 10 — 89 Primary timing chain guide-to-engine bolts 10 — 89 Oil pump screen and pickup tube spacer to main bearing stud 25 18 — Belt idler pulley bolt 25 18 — Subframe brace nuts 41 30 — Flywheel 85Nm(63ftlbs.) Pressure plate Stage 1: Tighten the bolts to 45 Nm (33 lb-ft). Stage 2: Tighten the bolts an additional 60 degrees. Spark plugs 15 11 — Note: For the torque specs, some numbers are noted to be in newton meters (nm), ft. lbs. or in. lbs. Bare numbers are noted as foot lbs, then inch lbs. A dash in place of any of the three means that particular torque spec isn't used.
If you're going to buy a car cover, but a good one. Be sure it fits well and be sure the fabric is high quality so it won't damage your car's finish. And, of course, be sure it provides the level of protection you need for either indoor or outdoor use. There are a number of good ones out there. I highly recommend Big Sky Car Covers.
Another good choice is California Car Cover.
GENERAL SPECS
(COUPE)
Drivetrain layout
Front engine, rwd
Engine type
Supercharged 90 Degree V-8 with fully counterweighted forged crankshaft, cast-iron block/aluminum heads
Valve gear
Chain driven DOHC, 4 valves/cyl.
Bore x stroke, in/mm
3.55x3.54 / 90.2x90.0
Displacement, ci/cc
280.7 / 4601
Compression ratio
8.5:1
Firing Order
7-3-8-1-6-5-2-4
Induction
Eaton Generation IV Roots-type supercharger with water-to-air intercooler, 8.0 psi maximum; aluminum intake manifold / tuned equal length runners, 57mm twin bore throttle body, 90mm mass-air sensor
Fuel Delivery
Sequential electronic fuel injection
Ignition
Distributorless coil-on-plug
Exhaust
Stainless steel, dual 2.25" / 3" polished tips
Max horsepower @ rpm
390 @ 6000
Max torque @ rpm
390 @ 3500
Specific output, hp/liter
84.8
Power to weight, lb/hp
9.6
Redline, rpm
6500
Transmission
TTC T-56 6-speed manual with 11" single plate clutch 1st Gear - 2.66 2nd Gear - 1.78 3rd Gear - 1.30 4th Gear - 1.00 5th Gear - 0.80 6th Gear - 0.63 Reverse - 2.90
Axle/final-drive ratios
3.55:1 / 2.24:1
Driveshaft
Aluminum driveshaft
Rear Axle
Aluminum case rear axle: 8.8" 3.55:1 Trac Lok
Suspension, f;r
Front: SVT modified MacPherson struts, with gas charged Bilstein monotube dampers and separate 600 lb./in. coil springs (500 lb. in. on convertible) on lower arm, 29mm tubular stabilizer bar Rear: Multi-link independent system, cast iron upper control arms, aluminum lower control arms, aluminum spindles, fixed toe-control tie rods, gas-charged Bilstein dampers and 600 lb. in coil springs (470 lb. in on convertible), 26mm tubular stabilizer bar
Steering
Rack and pinion, power assist
Steering Ratio
15.0:1
Turning Circle
41.7 ft.
Brakes, f;r
4 channel/4 sensor system Front: 13.0" vented Brembo discs with 2-piston calipers, ABS Rear: 11.65" discs with single-piston caliper, ABS
Wheels, f;r
17x9.0; 17x9.0, 5-spoke cast aluminum (optional chrome plating)
Tires, f;r
275/40ZR17; 275/40ZR17, Goodyear Eagle F1
DIMENSIONS
Wheelbase, in
101.3
Track, f;r, in
60.3; 60.3
Length, in
183.5
Width, in
73.1
Height, in
52.3
Curb weight, lb; f/r %
3665 lbs; 57/43 - Coupe 3780 lbs. - Convertible
Fuel capacity, gal
15.7
CONSUMER INFO
Base price
$33,125
Price as tested
$34,750
EPA mpg, city/hwy
16/22
3665; 57/43
Click on each thumbnail image below to see a full size Data Card for each model year. These full color Cards show all of the specs, standard equipment/trim, engine and drivetrain specs, etc. Depending on which browser you are using, you can scale the full-size image to suit your viewing needs.
2003 Specs Card 2004 Specs Card
On average, 2003/2004 stock Cobra’s dyno between 345 and 395 hp at the rear wheels using SAE correction. The lowest stock dyno number I have seen is in the low 340’s and the highest was 395. Average is between 365-370rwhp. The wide range of reported numbers are likely due to a number of factors, including..... * motor break-in period before first dyno run * manufacturing tolerances * factory tune * dyno variances * weather conditions when dynoed
2003 Cobra’s had two production runs. First run cars seem to have a bit more variation in dyno numbers and quality, come stock with AGSF12FM1 spark plugs, and have the older QUD2 EEC program, identified by a white sticker on the passenger side door, near the locking mechanism. Second run cars seem to have leveled out a bit, use AGSF22FM1 spark plugs, and have the newer YDH0 or YDH1 program.
The 2003 Cobra has several mechanical and visual differences from the 2001 Cobra. Mechanically, the 2003’s have a 112 c.i. Eaton supercharger, intercooler, intercooler reservoir, slightly different heads and cams, 8.5:1 compression, forged pistons and Manley H-beam rods, an Iron block, Tremec T-56 transmission, 3.55:1 rear gears, and stronger half-shafts. Visually, the 03’s have a different spoiler, front fascia/splitter, hood, side skirts, redesigned 17”x9” wheels, redesigned suede seating, and slightly different interior trim.
The Cobra's Traction Control System is an all-speed traction control system (TCS) that is standard equipment on all the 2003/2004 Ford SVT Mustang Cobras. The system's "Power Start" feature allows the driver to spin the drive wheels under acceleration, as long as the car tracks straight. If the system senses the vehicle slipping sideways, the traction control system will engage. The system also has a driver-selectable on/off switch. When the light is ON, the TC system is off. When the light is OFF, the TC system is on. A bit confusing but that's the way it works. With the TCS activated, when either of the two rear ABS/traction control sensors detects a wheel spinning at a rate higher than its counterpart, the engine management system retards ignition timing and modulates the fuel-air ratio to reduce power to that wheel. If the spinning continues, engine management cuts off one or more cylinders, and the ABS applies braking to the spinning wheel, transferring power to the other drive wheel. The sophisticated system can detect the difference between wheel spin due to acceleration from cornering slippage, based on differences in slip rates at the wheels. The TCS engine management strategies work at all speeds, and the system can apply braking to either rear wheel at speeds up to 62 mph. Most Cobra owners do not like this TCS. From what I understand, the system works better on a normally aspirated system like the 2001 Cobra. But it doesn't work as well with the supercharger on the '03/'04. So many owners get into the habit of turning the TCS off when they start the car.
What are the TSBs (Technical Service Bulletins) issued for the 2003/2004 Cobra?
Technical Service Bulletins (TSBs) and Recalls for 2003/2004 Mustang (Cobra is included) 04-24-8 STEERING RACK NOISE - Some 2002-2004 Mustang vehicles may exhibit a squeak or creak type noise while turning. ACTION: Replace both power steering gear tube brackets. Refer to Workshop Manual Section 211-02 Steering Gear Mounting. Tighten the steering gear mounting fasteners to 52 lb-ft (70 N-m). PART NUMBER PART NAME - E5DZ-3K620-A BRACKET
17-54-2 DRIVEABILITY - Stall Issue - Referred to as 'Lack of Power on Decel". SOME 2003 MUSTANG COBRA VEHICLES MAY EXHIBIT DRIVABILITY CONCERNS INCLUDING LOSS OF POWER ON DECEL. THIS MAY BE CAUSED BY THE CALIBRATION OF THE POWERTRAIN CONTROL MODULE (PCM). TO SERVICE, REPROGRAM THE PCM WITH THE LATEST CALIBRATION AVAILABLE USING WDS RELEASE B29.3 OR HIGHER.
18-22-9 STEERING - POP/CLUNK OR SQUEALING NOISE FROM THE STEERING GEAR WHEN TURNING, DRIVING OVER BUMPS, OR BRAKING.
04-01-02 BODY - INTERIOR TRIM - HEADLINER SAGGING IN REAR 04-5-3 CLIMATE CONTROL - RATTLE NOISE FROM INSTRUMENT PANEL VENTS - DIFFICULT TO ADJUST 04-24-3 Body - LEATHER-WRAPPED STEERING WHEEL - LEATHER COMING LOOSE 03-3-6 SUSPENSION - DRIFT OR PULL TO RIGHT OR LEFT 03-26-01 TRANSMISSION - 4R70W - NEW SERVICE PART - NUMBER 5 NEEDLE BEARING AND RACE KIT - SERVICE TIP 03-25-05 PAINT - PIN HOLES AND/OR PAINT DELAMINATION ON VEHICLE HOOD - VEHICLES BUILT 6/1/2001 THROUGH 3/1/2003 ONLY 03-24-03 TRANSMISSION - AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION GEAR SELECTOR LEVER STUCK IN PARK, UNABLE TO SHIFT INTO PARK - OVERDRIVE FUNCTION INOPERATIVE 03-23-02 BODY - MIRROR - EXTERIOR MIRROR GLASS AND MOTOR REPLACEMENT - SERVICE TIPS 03-22-01 BODY - NOISE - HOOD SCOOP (SHAKER) RATTLE NOISE ENGINE - NOISE - HOOD SCOOP (SHAKER) RATTLE NOISE NOISE - HOOD SCOOP (SHAKER) RATTLE NOISE 03-20-03 DRIVEABILITY - MALFUNCTION INDICATOR LAMP (MIL) ILLUMINATED WITH DTC'S P0442, P0455, P0456, P0457, P1442 OR CHECK FUEL CAP LAMP ILLUMINATED WITH DTC P0457 03-18-01 ELECTRICAL - REMOTE KEYLESS ENTRY (RKE) - SERVICE TIPS 03-15-01 ELECTRICAL - REAR WINDOW DEFROSTER GRID DIAGNOSIS AND REPAIR 03-14-08 TRANSMISSION - NEW TRANSMISSION COOLER FLUSHER - SERVICE TIPS 03-14-04 DRIVEABILITY - ENGINE MISFIRE OR ROUGH RUNNING - COIL ON PLUG (COP) IGNITION SYSTEMS - WDS COIL ON PLUG (COP) KIT DIAGNOSTIC TIPS 03-11-06 ELECTRICAL - WIRING - SOLDERING AND CRIMPING REPAIRS - SERVICE TIPS 03-11-04 ENGINE - MUSTANG COBRA - TICK NOISE FROM ENGINE - COBRA VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH ENGINES BUILT BEFORE 11/1/2002 ONLY* ISSUE: Some 2003 Mustang Cobra vehicles with engines built before 11/1/2002 may exhibit an unusual engine tick noise that is present at all temperatures during idle. This noise may be due to valve guide wear in the left bank cylinder head. Guide wear manifests itself as a tick noise which can be heard at the rear of LH head, through LH catalyst, at the LH front wheel well and may not be heard with the hood open. ACTION: Use the diagnostic Service Procedure listed below to evaluate the vehicle condition and replace the cylinder head if applicable. SERVICE PROCEDURE In order to diagnose noise, the following items must be checked: - Verify noise by placing a stethoscope on the back of the left head near the exhaust ports. - Verify that the noise is heard in the left side exhaust system (left side wheel well or catalytic converter, from underneath the vehicle). - Try to isolate the noise by cancelling the cylinders, by unplugging the injectors one at a time (start with #8 cylinder). - Verify that there are no exhaust manifold leaks. - Check to make sure that the camshaft spacers are in place. If not, install cam spacers (per Workshop Manual Section 303-01C) and retest vehicle. - Check for proper cam sprocket bolt torque, retorque to spec listed in the Workshop Manual Section 303-01C. - Check for spongy lash adjusters (refer to Section 303-00 in the corresponding Workshop Manual). - Verify that the timing chain tensioner pin has been removed. The part numbers for the latest Cobra heads (to fix the tick issue) are: Left side head Part # 2C5Z-6049-BAB Right side head Part # 2C5Z-6049-CAB * Please note that this issue was NOT confined to 2003 Cobras built before 11/1/2002 as was originally believed. It has happened on both 2003 and 2004 Cobras. Even on Mach 1s. Also note that the actual percentage of affected Cobras is very small. Also note that the original TSB stated that the then available replacement head was to be used if the driver's side head was confirmed to have the issue. However, it did not solve the problem as some cars with this early replacement head again developed the tick issue. ONLY the replacement head released in 01/2005 effectively solve the problem as the coolant passages were redesigned on this head. Lastly, this issue has affected a very small percentage of 2003-2004 Cobras. So the odds of any one Cobra developing the issue is minimal.
03-10-01 PAINT - PLASTIC BUMPER/FASCIA PARTS - PREPARATION PROCEDURES - SERVICE TIPS 03-09-05 SUSPENSION - CLUNK OR POP NOISE FROM REAR SUSPENSION - MUSTANG COBRA ONLY - SERVICE TIPS NOISE - CLUNK OR POP NOISE FROM REAR SUSPENSION - MUSTANG COBRA ONLY - SERVICE TIPS 03-08-03 ENGINE - ENGINE OIL LEVEL INDICATOR MARKINGS - REPORTS OF LOW OIL LEVELS ISSUE Reports from the field indicate incorrect or low engine oil levels are being found at Pre-Delivery Inspection on new vehicles received in dealer inventory. In most cases, the level is being misinterpreted because the fluid fill mark on the stick is not touching the top hash mark at the upper limit (or MAX mark), or is partway down the crosshatch area. SERVICE INFORMATION Ensure the vehicle is sitting on level ground. Set the park brake and ensure the transmission selector lever is in PARK position, or in FIRST gear on manuals. The engine must be OFF. The best time for determining oil level is before the engine is started and the oil has had sufficient drainback time to the sump. If the engine has been running, allow it to sit for a few minutes turned off. An oil drainback period is required before taking an initial reading. If the level falls below the lower hole, fill with one quart of oil. If one quart is insufficient to raise the level above the mark, add oil until it records within the crosshatch area. Use caution during this procedure as some time is needed for oil to drain down through the drainback passages in the cylinder head, to the oil pan. Adding oil a quart at a time repeatedly without sufficient drainback may overfill the sump. ACTION Ford is in the process of standardizing the markings across all vehicle lines. Current markings shown will be upgraded to a refined marking, shown in Figure 1. Both markings will be used in production over the next few years. Oil levels will still be recorded in the crosshatched area of the blade, between the upper and lower limit holes. Vehicles shipped with engine oil levels falling within this area are acceptable and do not require topping off. Oil fill quantities are precisely measured at the plants and account for slight variations that may occur in oil pan volumes, indicator length, and pressed-in locations of the indicator tube into the block. For customer use, the markings continue to serve as a guide to refilling the engine to the correct initial fill volume with filter or, to top off the engine when it is determined the level is below the lower hole. If the oil level falls between the upper and lower hole do not add more oil. Adding an extra quart could cause overfilling and may result in aeration (foaming) causing eventual damage to vital bearing surfaces and moving parts inside. Overfilling will require some oil to be drained out until the indicator shows the level between the upper and lower holes of the blade. DO NOT expect the engine to “consume” the extra oil back down to the upper oil fill level hole, or consider it as extra lubrication protection for the engine. NOTE: The information in Technical Service Bulletins is intended for use by trained, professional technicians with the knowledge, tools, and equipment to do the job properly and safely. It informs these technicians of conditions that may occur on some vehicles, or provides information that could assist in proper vehicle service. The procedures should not be performed by “do-it-yourselfers”. Do not assume that a condition described affects your car or truck. Contact a Ford, Lincoln, or Mercury dealership to determine whether the Bulletin applies to your vehicle. 03-03-06 SUSPENSION - DRIFT OR PULL TO RIGHT OR LEFT - MUSTANG COBRA MODELS ONLY 03-01-05 TRIM - PASSENGER SEAT RUBS AGAINST DOOR PANEL 02-23-07 COOLING SYSTEM - MOTORCRAFT PREMIUM GOLD ENGINE COOLANT - SERVICE TIPS 02-23-03 DRIVEABILITY - FUEL PRESSURE RELIEF VALVE (SCHRADER VALVE) DISCONTINUED ENGINE - 3.0L/3.8L/4.6L - FUEL PRESSURE RELIEF VALVE (SCHRADER VALVE) DISCONTINUED 02-22-01 DRIVEABILITY - SURGE/ROLLING IDLE - GEAR DRIVEN SYNCHRONIZERS - INCORRECT INSTALLATION - CAMSHAFT POSITION SYNCHRONIZER (CMP) INSTALLATION TOOL CORRECT APPLICATION ENGINE - GEAR DRIVEN SYNCHRONIZERS - INCORRECT INSTALLATION - CAMSHAFT POSITION SYNCHRONIZER (CMP) INSTALLATION TOOL CORRECT APPLICATION 02-21-13 ENGINE - STRAIGHTEDGE PROCEDURE FOR CHECKING CYLINDER HEAD AND BLOCK FLATNESS 02-20-08 CLIMATE CONTROL - A/C SERVICE TECH TIPS 02-17-08 NOISE - WINDNOISE FROM THE "A" PILLAR AREA 02-17-06 LAMP - BRAKE - INADVERTENT DISABLING OF BRAKE SHIFT INTERLOCK 02-16-07 BODY - PAINT - APPROVED PAINT MATERIALS FOR WARRANTY REPAIRS
04-13-4 TRANSMISSION - Transmission Rattle Noise or Difficult to Shift (Tremac T-56 Transmission) - Some 2003-2004 Mustang Cobra vehicles equipped with the T-56 transmission may a rattle noise or a difficult to shift condition. This is due to a cracked or broken release bearing guide tube. Action: To service, install a revised transmission adapter cover plate. The revised adapter cover has release bearing guide tube already installed. Ford Announces Recall of All 2003-2004 Cobras for Carpet Fix/Sticking Gas Pedal (May, 2006) The NHTSA concluded its investigation into reports that the gas pedal on 2003-2004 Mustang Cobras could become snagged on the carpet trim under the pedal. As a result of the investigation, Ford has issued a recall on all 2003 and 2004 Cobras for a fix. Details of the fix are below.
Make : FORD Model : MUSTANG Year : 2003 Manufacturer : FORD MOTOR COMPANY NHTSA CAMPAIGN ID Number : 06V108000 Recall Date : APR 03, 2006 Component: VEHICLE SPEED CONTROL:ACCELERATOR PEDAL Potential Number Of Units Affected : 19140 Summary: ON CERTAIN MUSTANG COBRA PASSENGER VEHICLES, THE REAR SURFACE OF THE ACCELERATOR PEDAL MAY COME INTO CONTACT WITH FLOOR CARPETING DURING HEAVY THROTTLE APPLICATION. THE UNIQUE SURFACE PROFILE OF THE ACCELERATOR PEDAL MAY CATCH IN THE CUTOUT ON THE FLOOR CARPETING BEHIND THE ACCELERATOR PEDAL. Consequence: THIS COULD INTERFERE WITH THE PEDAL'S ABILITY TO RETURN TO AN IDLE POSITION. UNEXPECTED, CONTINUED THROTTLE APPLICATION AND/OR INCREASED STOPPING DISTANCES MAY OCCUR WHICH COULD RESULT IN A CRASH. Remedy: DEALERS WILL INSTALL A SHIELD OVER THE CUTOUT IN THE CARPET BEHIND THE ACCELERATOR PEDAL. THE RECALL IS EXPECTED TO BEGIN ON APRIL 26, 2006. OWNERS MAY CONTACT FORD AT 1-800-392-3673. Notes: FORD RECALL NO. 06S43. CUSTOMERS MAY ALSO CONTACT THE NATIONAL HIGHWAY TRAFFIC SAFETY ADMINISTRATION'S VEHICLE SAFETY HOTLINE AT 1-888-327-4236 (TTY 1-800-424-9153), OR GO TO HTTP://WWW.SAFERCAR.GOV.
Here is a picture of the plate installed. Click to enlarge.
Heat soak is when the engine's generation of internal heat exceeds the cooling system capacity to dissipate the heat being generated. The surrounding metal surfaces literally becomes "soaked" in heat which will rob the engine of its ability to generate full power since the air and coolant is literally being heated from the surrounding "heat soaked" metal parts. In regards to the Terminator, it isn't just so much a matter of high coolant temps causing power loss, but rather the effect it has on the efficiency of the intercooler. It isn't a problem unless you are racing and concerned about an above mentioned power loss after repeat runs. It is worse in hot climates/seasons. It really isn't so much a 'problem' for the average driver, but more of an inconvenience. When heat soak occurs, it pulls timing based on post-intercooler air temps. That's where some power loss will occur. A larger heat exchanger is a good mod, as is a larger coolant reservoir. Replacement intercoolers aren’t available. The real issue with heat soak is that the engine's cooling mechanisms are not able to keep up with the heat buildup and therefore everything metal in the engine begins to retain the heat going into them from the blower plenum on down to all the metal ducts, plating, block, heads, etc.
The following page has a great explanation of the operation of a roots supercharger: http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/t425.html
What transmission does the Cobra use?
The 03 Cobra uses a Tremec T-56 6-Speed transmission. While this is fundamentally the same transmission used the the Viper, C5 Corvette, and F-Body (Camaro/Firebird), the torque specifications and gearing for the Cobra may be different than from these other models (our T-56 is rated to 450 Ft/Lbs of torque).
I have a PDF file for the T-56 Service Manual. If contains detailed service information on the T-56 transmission. CLICK HERE.
Rear Suspension- Multi-link independent system, cast iron upper control arm, aluminum lower control arm, fixed toe-control tie rod, aluminum spindle, gas-charged Bilstein™ monotube shock absorber, 600 lb/in (470 lb/in on convertible) coil spring, 26mm tubular stabilizer bar. Coupe Shock Part# 2R3Z-18125-AA Vert Shock Part# 2R3Z-18125-BA
Front Suspension- Modified MacPherson strut system with gas-charged Bilstein™ monotube dampeners and separate 600 lb/in (500 lb/in on convertible) spring on lower arm, 29mm tubular stabilizer bar. Coupe Strut Part# 2R3Z-18124-AA Vert Strut Part# 2R3Z-18124-BA Rear Suspension- Multi-link independent system, cast iron upper control arm, aluminum lower control arm, fixed toe-control tie rod, aluminum spindle, gas-charged Bilstein™ monotube shock absorber, 600 lb/in (470 lb/in on convertible) coil spring, 26mm tubular stabilizer bar. Coupe Shock Part# 2R3Z-18125-AA Vert Shock Part# 2R3Z-18125-BA
Front Brakes- 13.0 in. (330mm) vented Brembo™ disc, PBR™ twin-piston caliper. Rear Brakes- 11.65 in. (296mm) vented disc, single-piston caliper. ABS- Four-channel, four sensor system.
Based on Cobra’03’s extensive research on this subject, here are some suggested lubricants: ”Amsoil 0w30 Series 2000, Amsoil 5w30, and Red Line 5w30 or 5w20 (it's lubricating qualities make it a safer bet than a mineral 5w20 for the Nervous Nancy’s out there). Lesser but still high quality are Mobil 1, Valvoline, and Pennzoil synoils. I do not think much of Syntec or Castrol domestically but their Euro-spec oils are very good. If you drive your car on nice days, and never at temps much below 20 degrees F, 10w30 spec oils, esp. synoils, have even greater shear stability than 5w30. If you are at the borderline of sunny day only use, go for the 5w to be on the safe side.” Note that there is no harm in using synthetic oil in the Cobra, despite what SVT says on the subject. See the following post for more information on this subject: http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=14856 Next, no “snake oil” products, such as Slick 50, Prolong, etc., should be used in the Cobra. For information as to why, please see the following post: http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=19386 Finally, the following post will be helpful in understanding the additives in engine oil: http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=19526
If you're looking for a ton of FAQ information about motor oil, here is an excellent source. Just a mouse click away. BobIsTheOilGuy
The Eaton M-112 Supercharger on the Cobra has it’s own oil, separate from the engine oil. This oil is used to lubricate the internals in the blower snout. To change the oil, remove the oil from the snout through the fill plug, and then refill with approximately 8-10 ounces of Ford E9SZ-19577-A or GM 1234-5982. Some have used Mobil 10W30 but IMO use a real supercharger oil. Ford says the factory fill is good for 100,000 miles but changing it at 60,000 miles is better. If you are using a smaller upper pulley to increase boost you are over-spinning the blower and should change the oil more often. I would recommend 30,000 miles max.
Tremac recommends the following lubricants for their transmissions, including the T-56. TR-3550/TKO - GM Synchromesh or Dexron III TR-3650/T-45/T-5 - Dexron III T-56 (Ford and GM) - Dexron III T-56 (Viper only) - Castrol Syntorque The following transmission fluids are widely used as well. Red Line D4 ATF; Red Line MTL Valvoline Durablend ATF Amsoil ATF Mobil 1 ATF GM Synchromesh or Quaker State Synchromesh Stock Ford Fluid Many Terminator owners recommend changing the transmission fluid once a year. Others do it every 24,000 or 30,000 miles. Or follow Ford's recommended maintenance found in your Owners Manual. Transmission Draining and Filling
Item
Specification
DEXRON III® (ATF) Transmission Fluid XT-2-QDX
DEXRON III®
Remove the drain plug and drain the transmission.
Position a suitable drain pan under the transmission.
Clean and install the drain plug.
NOTE: Before removing, clean the area around the filler plug.
Remove the filler plug.
Using a suitable oil suction gun, fill the transmission to the correct level with the specified fluid.
Transmission capacity is 3.9 liters (4.1 quarts).
Install the filler plug.
Early 2003 Cobras came with green color ethylene glycol coolant. Second run 2003 Cobras and all 2004 Cobras came with the gold color ethylene glycol coolant. The gold colored coolant is Motorcraft Premium Gold Engine Coolant. It is recommended that you use the gold Ford Premium coolant. PART NUMBER/PART NAME VC-7-A Motorcraft Premium Gold Engine Coolant - For Use In U.S. (Except For California and Oregon) - (6) U.S. 1 Gallon Containers VC-7-B Motorcraft Premium Gold Engine Coolant with Bittering Agent - For Use Only In California and Oregon - (6) U.S. 1 Gallon Containers The bittering agent renders the coolant or antifreeze unpalatable. A new, extended-life engine coolant, yellow-colored Motorcraft Premium Gold Engine Coolant, meeting Ford Specification WSS-M97B51-A1, service part numbers VC-7-A and VC-7-C (for use in the U.S., except California and Oregon) and VC-7-B (for use only in California and Oregon as it contains a bittering agent), has been equipped in all of the vehicles noted above. The initial-fill life for this coolant is 100,000 miles/5 years. Due to variations in water quality, the replacement interval is 50,000 miles/3 years. Some claim that you can mix the Green coolant which came with initial run 2003 Cobras with the Gold coolant used on 2nd run 2003 and all 2004 Cobras because they are both ethylene glycol type. However, Ford specifically states that you should not mix the two, so do so at your own risk. If you are flushing and refilling your cooling system go with the Motorcraft Premium Gold Engine Coolant noted above. Here is some info direct from Ford/Motorcraft. Specifically they state the following. Do not use this product in systems originally equipped with any green-colored, conventional engine coolant such as Motorcraft® Premium Engine Coolant, meeting Ford Specification ESE-M97B44-A (see usage chart for exceptions), or with any orange-colored, extended-life engine coolant such as Motorcraft® Specialty Orange Engine Coolant, meeting Ford Specification WSS-M97B44-D. CLICK HERE if you'd like to read the entire page. Please note that Motorcraft Premium Gold Engine Coolant (ethylene glycol type) is not compatible with any orange-colored, extended-life engine coolants (propylene glycol type) such as Motorcraft Specialty Orange Engine Coolant, service part numbers VC-2 and VC-3. DO NOT MIX COOLANT TYPES. USE ONLY THE TYPE OF COOLANT WITH WHICH THE VEHICLE WAS EQUIPPED. Failure to follow these guidelines may result in degradation of corrosion protection and potential engine damage. You can find more info on this subject here: SVTPerformance.com Discussion
The intercooler takes the same type of coolant as the engine. Refer to the notes above under Primary Coolant as they apply to the intercooler coolant.
Currently, it seems that the stock brake fluid (listed in the owner’s manual) is sufficient for most needs.
It is very important to jack up the car using the correct jacking points to avoid damaging the undercarriage. Here are the proper jacking points. Steeda sells a neat set of jacking rails which give a more solid lifting point. Click thumbnails to enlarge.
You can also install a good quality set of full-length (NOT mid-length) side rails. If you choose to go with the side rails be sure to put the jack squarely under the rail to avoid damaging the undercarriage.
The inner serpentine belt drives the accessories noted in the table below. Check the belt at every oil change for cracks and replace when necessary. Note that this is NOT the belt that drives the supercharger. Changing this serpentine belt takes more time than changing the blower belt. If you have a stock lower pulley you have to remove the pulley cage. Some remove the lower crank pulley as well, although that should not be necessary. Use a pry bar to help rotate the belt sideways to position the belt as needed. Refer to the graphic below for proper belt routing. Just remember that if the pulley is grooved then the grooved part of the belt should be touching it. If the pulley is smooth then the smooth part of the belt should be touching it.
Thanks to Airmanb2b on SVTPerformance.com for these instructions and photos. Click thumbnails to enlarge. Time: 1 hour with a break after removal Supplies and Tools: 5/16 Fuel Line Removal Tool - Different brands are available. Check this one: http://www.tooltopia.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=6448 Flathead Screwdriver Fuel Filter of your choice
1. Disconnect Negative battery terminal 2. Find the fitting on the passenger side fuel rail.
3. Remove the black cap and depress pin with a phillips screw drive. You may want to cover with a rag. Depending on how long the car has been sitting will effect the amount of pressure in the fuel rail.
3. Jack up the rear of the car and place on jack-stands. 4. Slide underneath the car and find the filter. Best way to describe is between the gas tank and IRS.
5. You will see 2 metal clips. One on each side of the filter. Pull those off.
6. Clip your 5/16 tool of the lines on the fuel filter. Once it is on hard fuel filter line, pull it into the main fuel line until you hear a click.
7. Pull the tool into the main fuel line. You may need to push the filter with your knuckle for leverage. May need to work the tool up and down. Be patient, the line will come off. Note that the fuel line ends are spring loaded. The tool pushes the spring over the flare.
8. Do the same on the other side. 9. Once both lines are off, unscrew the clamp and slide it off the filter on the dirvers side.
10. Once the clamp is off, pull the filter up to remove from bracket. 11. Place the new filter in the bracket. Be sure the FLOW arrow on the filter is pointing to the drivers side of the car.
12. Slide the metal clamp on the filter and bracket and tighten down. 13. Install fuel line onto the filter until you hear a click. lines will be seated on the filter then. 14. Install metal clips back onto line and filter.
15. Remove car from stands. 16. Before actually starting the car. Turn the Key to run and off a couple of times, listening for the pump to charge the line. The first time, the pump is going to sound a little louder than normal. It should sound normal by the third time. 17. Start car and let run. If you have a leak, you will know immediately. 18. Do a blow test on the filter and see how much crap was in the filter.
2.2.17
With the car OFF, put it in first gear. Reach down and with your hands, pull UP on the clutch pedal. You may or may not hear a click. With your foot press the clutch down to the floor. This works much like an auto brake cable adjuster.
2.2.18
The FRPS is the Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor. It reports the pressure inside the fuel rail to the PCM. The PCM responds to inputs from the fuel pressure sensor and other sensors, then adjusts the fuel pressure by changing a pulse width modulated voltage supply to the fuel pump. The fuel pump either speeds up or slows down, based on what the PCM believes the engine's fuel needs happen to be at any given time. In this way, fuel pressure across the injectors is maintained at the correct pressure. When the FRPS starts to fail (not uncommon) the result can be stalling and rough idling.
Here is a photo showing its location.
Many ask why the FRPS fails. Some mistakenly believe that high fuel pressure causes the failure. But it actually is caused by the rate of pressure rise. The following explanation comes from Jerry Wroblewski who helped design the SCT tuning software. He also worked for Ford, Roush and others. Special thanks to Jerry for this excellent information. First let me address your statement about the sensors breaking. The Ford spec for the returnless fuel sensor is a burst pressure of at least 200 psi. Have you seen 200 psi in the fuel system? I bet you have not. In fact I bet no one has. The sensor fails because of the rate of pressure rise, or a square wave. When I say square wave, I mean that it’s basically seeing a huge pressure rise like it’s being hit with a hammer. Here’s a story for you. The case wall in the 4R70W transmission was failing (in about 1995 or 1996). It would break from the line pressure passage to the reverse passage. We blocked off the passages and ran pressure up to 1000 psi and the wall didn’t fail. But on a spin stand, with no oil in the main regulator signal land, as the input shaft spun up, pressure would spike until the main regulator valve moved, so the pressure was a square wave, to about 180 psi and you could actually hear the wall break. So it had nothing to do with how much pressure it was seeing, it has to do with the rate of pressure rise. Now, the Kenne Bell disc helps because it slows down the rate of pressure rise that the sensor sees, but not of the actual fuel system. So the sensor doesn’t get hit with the square wave quite as hard. Does it work, yes. Does it address root cause, no. The bottom line is this is why the sensors fail, not absolute pressure, but rate of pressure rise.
Some new Cobra owners make the mistake of immediately buying mods without considering their needs and goals. Some of it comes from the excitement of knowing that for a nominal sum of money you can just about instantly make this car a 450rwhp beast. But my advise is don't do a thing until you establish your goals. You first need to answer some basic questions. 1. How will you be using your Cobra? a. Street only? b. Street & occasional drag racing? c. Any road racing? 2. What power level are you shooting for? a. A bit more than stock? b. 450rwhp or so? c. 500rwhp or so? d. More than 500rwhp? 3. Do you want a very conservative and safe setup? 4. What is your budget? 5. What is your timeline for your mods? IMO these are all very important questions any new Cobra owner has to answer before throwing their money down on mods. With so many options and offerings, it is too easy to waste money and time on a package that is less than perfect. A great source for information is SVTPerformance forum. You can spend some time browsing there and using the great Search function to gather info. There is so much info, though, that you might get overwhelmed. So I would also recommend that you talk to a few folks there who can help you do it right. There are also a number of great vendors who can give you great advice, including, Horsepower By Hermann, Amazon Tuning, etc. Take care time and do it right and you'll have a lot more fun and fewer headaches.
The most common bolt-ons are CAI/RAI (cold air intake and ram air intake), exhaust, smaller upper pulley, larger lower crank pulley, ported blower, long tube headers, lowering springs, suspension mods, aftermarket wheels, and drag radials. These mods are typically enough to get the Cobra to around 445-475 RWHP and 475-500 RWTQ, and should be capable of propelling a good driver to low 11’s. Other more radical mods include twin-screw blowers (Whipple and Kenne Bell) and twin-turbos. Porting the Eaton has become very popular and can net you over 50rwhp. Stiegemeier Porting has been porting Eaton blowers since 2003. Call Bob at (636) 949-2275. Another newer and proven porting service is Posi Performance which does blower race ports. Contact Brian at (502) 489-0136.
This is a difficult question. Every car is slightly different, and will respond differently to modifications. Your best advice is to get your car chassis dynoed after each modification. A chassis dyno session should run you around $100 for three pulls.
This is also a difficult question. The short answer is “maybe”. The sure-fire warranty busters seem to be chip and pulley mods, but that is debatable. According to the law, the manufacturer has to prove that the modification caused the damage in order to deny the warranty. While this sounds good in theory, the truth is that you will most likely have to take the matter to court in order to get the law upheld. In general, it is usually better to call around to several dealerships before you modify your car and find one that is “mod friendly”. Since warranty repair determination is usually left up to the individual dealer, having a good relationship with your service writer is somewhat vital. However, if you do have warranty troubles for damage that was not caused by the mod, and the dealer refuses to work on the vehicle, you can attempt to fight the decision (you can also try another dealer, but sometimes the dealer enters the denied repair into the system for all other dealers to see). Fighting a denied claim may involve getting the regional Ford warranty rep involved, and/or getting a good attorney involved.
Usually, yes. For an upper pulley swap, with a pulley smaller than 3.2” you should at the very least get a dyno pull with a wideband A/F check. In general, you want the A/F ratio to be below 12.0 (12 parts air to 1 part fuel). Rule of thumb is that any time you install a motor mod, get your A/F checked.
The upper blower pulley attaches to the blower snout and is pressed on and must be pulled off. To swap this pulley, a specialized “pulley puller” tool is usually recommended. The stock upper pulley is 3.65”. For more boost, you reduce the size of the pulley. Smaller pulleys, however, also have less belt wrap, making belt slippage a strong possibility. So adding auxiliary idlers is highly recommended. Lower pulleys, on the other hand, are bolted on. Lower pulleys are the opposite of upper pulleys, and bigger pulleys provide more boost. Lower pulleys typically do not suffer from belt slip as badly either. On the other hand, the lower pulley kit consists of several pieces of supporting hardware, and can be more difficult to install. The stock lower pulley is 7 5/8”.
Upper and Lower Pulleys
One of the easiest modifications for a significant performance gain is to swap the stock 3.65 upper pulley for a smaller pulley and custom tune. Two of the most common sizes are the 2.93/2.90 and the 2.76. For example, a 2003/2004 Cobra with only intake and exhaust mods can make in the neighborhood of 450rwhp and 470rwtq with the addition of a 2.93 upper pulley and a good, safe custom tune. Many prefer to include a larger lower crank pulley change as well, but replacing the lower pulley is much more labor intensive than replacing the upper pulley, which is why an upper pulley swap is so popular.
The chart below shows the approximate boost various upper and lower pulley combinations will produce. Note that it is recommended that a stock, unported Eaton blower should be kept in the 15 lb. max boost area. A 2.76/2.80 or 2.93/2.90 is a popular choice. A ported blower is more efficient and can handle 16-17 lbs. of boost nicely. A 2.93/2.90 upper with a 2.93/2.90 upper and 2.76/2.80 upper with a 4 lb. lower are popular choices for a ported blower setup. Some prefer the 2.93/2.90 upper with a 6 lb. lower. Discuss your options with your tuner and, if applicable, the shop that ported your blower.
NOTE: Estimated Peak Boost in the table below is just that...an estimate. Boost will vary from car to car depending on your mods. It is important to remember that a Terminator making 450rwhp with 12 lbs. of boost is more efficient that another Terminator making the same power with 14 lbs. of boost. Also, please use the information in the chart ONLY for general comparisons. The chart does not take into account the varying combinations of intake and exhaust and weather conditions. To really be accurate, every combination listed would have to be with the exact same intake/exhaust mods, on the same car on the same day. So it is only a guide. Please note that the Lower Pulley Sizes shown in the chart are all measured "from the top of the tooth" according to the Metco Motorsports website.
Special note concerning idlers. It is not uncommon for those who install a smaller upper pulley to stick with one or more of the stock idlers. It is important to point out that increased blower boost (and subsequent belt rpm) from smaller upper pulleys will add more tensional torque than the stock idlers are designed to handle. Therefore it is important to swap out all of the stock idlers with quality aftermarket idlers. There have been many reports from owners who have had stock idlers come apart or seize up, resulting in broken blower belts and loss of blower function.
The lower crank pulley can be changed as well to increase boost. The larger the pulley, the more boost. Here are some approximate boost numbers. Approximate Lower Crank Pulley Max Boost 2 Lb.: 10.7 lbs. 4 Lb.: 12 lbs. 6 Lb.: 12.9 lbs. 8 Lb.: 13.7 lbs. 10 Lb.: 14.4 lbs.
